Tag Archives: UNESCO

Wyles Walkabout

Chilling in chilly Essaouira

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Am actually starting to feel a little tired already as pretty much since arriving in Morocco, it has been non stop adventure, exploring and exhausting heat. Can’t believe am saying that as am not even one month into this Walkabout and I know there will be a lot more exhaustive travel ahead. It sounds strange as most of the actual travelling in Morocco so far (1,430 miles / 2,300km) has been in a comfortable air conditioned minibus, but where we have stopped or stayed it has been pretty full on.

Heading over to Essaouira, a colourful fishing town with 15th Century Portuguese forts on the windy Atlantic coast, we drove the twisting and turning Atlas Mountain road which look like they were left on the cutting room floor from the opening scenes of The Italian Job.

Opening the doors of the minibus and the temperature difference was noticeable immediately, even with the air-con on full. After sweltering in the Sahara heat, to be suddenly faced with cold winds I was glad I packed a soft shell jacket and long trousers. But the cool air was so refreshing I could have stayed for a few days more as the heat had penetrated my bones and I needed to cool down to a more acceptable ‘English climate’. Saying that, I do not know when I am going to experience a temperature below 30 degrees centigrade again.

The hotel was right on the beach and in a funny sort of way, reminded more of Monaco than Morocco. The medina is UNESCO-listed and it was a pleasure to wonder around as the streets were a little wider, had fewer motorcycles wizzing by and it seemed far less hectic than the medinas and souks of Fes, Chefchaouen or Marrakech. It also didn’t smell anywhere near as bad (despite being a fishing port) and the cool temperature made it comfortable to wonder around. We found a fantastic Italian restaurant and had pizza which was amazing. There are only so many tajine or skewers you can eat… Unfortunately with all the change in temperature, in and out of the minibus, or if it was just tajine withdrawal symptoms, I found myself coming down with a head cold so I dosed myself up with lots with fresh squeezed orange juice and really didn’t venture out of the hotel that much. Pity, as I didn’t come travelling to spend time in a hotel room, no matter how lovely it was. The head cold didn’t stop me from joining my fellow travellers for a refreshing beer on the roof terrace though.

It was a shame to leave Essaouira but we needed to head back to Marrakech, to where it all began. Difficult to believe that in only 15 days have experienced a country so diverse in landscapes, climates and people, from mountains to deserts, to ski resorts and chilly coastal towns, to hot and busy crowded towns and markets with crazy drivers. Everyone I have met here is so friendly and welcoming, certainly appears more so than back home. But there were still more surprises to come. On the drive back to Marrakech, I thought the head cold was playing tricks on my eyes as I was certain I saw a tree full of goats. I had heard rumours that they do climb trees here, but never thought I’d see it. Sure enough, there was a tree full of goats and I got to hold one…

Wyles Walkabout

Casablanca to Chefchaouen

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So am a few days behind in updating the blog so this is quite a big one. Sorry about that, but it has just been non-stop so far, visiting exotic and exciting places, doing tours and exploring so have not really had the time or in some places, the WiFi available. But am not just travelling to sit in a lovely sea-fronted, air conditioned hotel in Essaouira (which is more like Monaco than Morocco) drinking an ice cold beer just to update a blog but guess it has to be done. Hard life for some eh…?

Leaving Casablanca early-ish, we drove straight to Rabat (Morocco’s capital city) and visited Oudaia Kasbah, Hasan Tower, the Royal Palace and Chellah. Thankfully the minibus is air coniditioned as we’re all struggling with the heat, now at approx. 40 degrees centigrade. Covering up with a massive hat for some shade and factor 50, am thinking I should have packed an asbestos suit and a welders helmet instead… Fortunately there are stalls almost everywhere selling watermelon or fresh squeezed orange juice which is so refreshing in this heat.

Regardless of your personal religious beliefs, it is near impossible not to be impressed with the scale and grandeur of the mosques and palaces here. They are beyond comprehension.

After Rabat and Meknès, we headed towards Chefchaouen stopping off at the UNESCO listed Roman ruins in Volubilis which date back to AD40. I have visited other Roman ruins in England before, St Albans (aka Verulanium) and Bath but these are so well preserved it was easy to imagine how Roman life may have been. Really felt like I was in Gladiator, or with the characters in this group, Carry On Cleo… 🙂

Perhaps one of the most surprising towns in Morocco, is Chefchaouen. It’s located high up in the Rif mountains and is characterised by the blue and white walled medina, originally a Berber post. To me, the ‘streets’ are near impossible to navigate, are narrow, cobbled, uneven and all look identical. All are blue and white, all stall holders sell the same sort of things and there are very few identifiable landmarks except maybe a central square or a fountain – if you can find them… Add the heat and a little dehydration and it can become an overwhelming and stressful experience. At least the stall holders are not like those in Egypt who hassle you to come into their shops to buy something.

So not wanting to by some ‘tourist tat’ I left the group and spent at least 1-2 hours alone trying to find my way back to the main square. Getting lost in places like this was an experience, but not one I’d like to repeat. Down one street, up another, round the corner, carry on, go down, turn left, change level, down another street etc. And I end back where I started even though I was adamant I was heading in the right direction. In the end I conceded and had to ask for help from one of the shop keepers. I guess they are used to tourists getting lost.

Next morning, we successfully navigated the town then hiked about 30 mins to visit a Spanish church high up above Chefchaouen so you could get a view of this incredible place. It does impress…