Wyles Walkabout

Time for Thailand

I was nervous about the flight to Thailand; Nepal doesn’t have the best air travel safety record, but by booking with a reputable airline, Thai Airways, I hoped to avoid any catastrophe. Fortunately the flight was OK, zero turbulence and only 3 hours 20 minutes soit  wasn’t worth upgrading and actually had quite a lot of leg room as it happened. On board, I had a couple of drinks and a meal included which is quite a rarity from some airlines these days and as a bonus, it was good. Also watched the latest Mission Impossible film in between looking out the window at Mount Everest and various announcement interruptions.

The airport in Bangkok is really quite clean and modern, very different to the garden shed at the end of a runway in Nepal. Immigration was simple and efficient though I must get to an immigration office before 6th January and extend my visa exemption for another 30 days. The alternative would be to exit Thailand, to somewhere like Malaysia and re-enter Thailand for another 30 day visa exemption stamp in the passport. Haven’t quite decided yet.

It was a quick 30 minite transfer in a taxi for about 600 Baht (£12) and it dropped me off at the hotel near the Khaosan area of Bangkok. Have stayed here before but the hotel has since changed brand and ownership. I couldn’t quite believe how busy the road had become. Last time I was here there were only a few bars down the street, a few street vendors, massage places and travel and tour agents. That was 10 years ago, now there are many more bars and restaurants with live music every night which starts gently at around 20:00 hours and goes on until about 02:00 – 03:00 hours or until the last person leaves.

I dropped off my bags in the room and got changed back into shorts and sandals, having come from Nepal which whilst not cold, warranted wearing trousers and a fleece, but the sticky evening warmth of Bangkok was too much. I wondered down and around the Khaosan Road which brought back memories and it took all of about 2 minutes to hear the familiar call of, “Hallooo Meeeesstaaaahh!” from various street sellers and offers of massages, which you only ever seem to hear in Thailand. In addition, there were little old ladies with wooden ‘chirping frogs’, people with fried scorpions and spiders on sticks trying to sell them to various tourists.

The music was blaring out and managed to have a couple of pints of Chiang which was really refreshing and didn’t touch the sides. Bangkok has some of the best street food in the world, even in a very touristy section it is worth eating a Pad Thai or some spring rolls from the street vendors instead of a sit down restaurant. Cheaper, tastier and more hygienic. However, there are stalls selling various deep fried insects, bugs, spiders and the like but I chose to refrain.

Next morning after an oriental and continental breakfast, I decided to go on an exploration of the immediate area find my bearings. I managed to get a hair cut for 300 Baht though still need to have another as I think something got lost in translation and I was too polite to argue with a ladyboy armed with scissors. I also stocked up on some toiletries from a local Boots store. It’s really exciting this travelling lark… Pity I bought the toiletries from the first Boots I saw, as on the way to the Grand Palace, less than 1 km away from my hotel, there was a bigger Boots and 7-11 store which had everything I wanted and needed, but a lot cheaper. I contemplated going back to the hotel, collecting my purchases and returning them for a refund and then buying them at the other stores, but it was too hot and too much inconvenience to do. At least I know for next time…

It was a short, hot walk across some busy traffic to the Grand Palace. There’s a strict dress coded enforced so no shorts allowed but fortunately they sold trousers which were cheaper than my haircut, so got a pair which actually fit really well. Elasticated waist too which is handy because of all the delicious Thai food I am having to eat. What a shame… The palace itself was really, really busy but a must see attraction in Bangkok. I decided not to hire a tour guide here and just explore on my own. In hindsight probably I should have done, at least they could have taken pictures of me rather than try and do a selfie.

Had a really nice coconut and chicken soup for lunch with a couple of beers and wiled away the afternoon down by the riverside having a look at boat trips for next month.

I checked out of the hotel with minimal fuss and got a taxi to the station, collected my train ticket from the office opposite, over the road and boarded the train. The ticket office recommended collecting the ticket at least 2 hours before scheduled departure as the office can get busy which is fair enough. I got there about 11: 00 for a 13:00 train and I was the only customer in the office. Picked up the ticket and free bottle of water and crossed the road back to the station. The train was already in and I was able to board, even about an hour and a half early.

I had  booked a 2nd class air-conditioned sleeper train to take me to Chumphon where I am spending a few days before heading to Koh Tao. The train seats are wide and comfy with plenty of room but the train is a little ‘rustic’’ and rattles along the way. Every 15 minutes for so, someone walks past trying to sell drinks or food of varying sorts (thankfully no spiders or scorpions though).

The train was supposed to arrive in Chumphon at 21:12 but actually arrived over an hour later. Once again no big deal, as I had no connections to make and the seats were comfortable. Outside the station there were a handful of tuk tuks waiting – very different to the hustle and bustle of Bangkok.

I had a couple of days in Chumphon but the hotel was about 20 km away from any of the forests and the weather was really awful – thunder and lightening for the duration. I explored a bit and got soaked so decided to go for a swim in the pool. Was wet anyway. The room was absolutely lovely but this was just a stopping point before heading to Koh Tao for Christmas.

Wyles Walkabout

Calcutta and Darjeeling

The last night in Puri was also the last night for one of our Dragoman leaders as he was leaving to head a new tour in Africa. This was an opportunity to go out for a nice meal and say our goodbyes. The meal was excellent but sadly the same could not be said for the wine. However after a few glasses, the taste buds had become accustomed to it, just…

Yet another early start to catch the train to Calcutta. It was quite a relief to leave this hotel, but not Puri, and head to the station, even at 05:00 hrs. It was seating only which was OK but like most train journeys in England there were several noisy, annoying local passengers with loud mobile phones and screaming kids, etc. Still, I was able to sit back, relax and watch the scenery go by for about 8 hours. There are worse ways to spend a day, especially when I think about my friends back home working…

Calcutta station was a welcome site. I was anticipating chaos, noise, overcrowding and and people jostling for position but it was really civilised, with people quiet, queued up in straight lines, luggage set out all in a line with several employees guarding it – not at all what I expected. Outside the station however, a completely different story. We lugged our bags to the pre-paid taxi park and must have been accosted no less than 20 times by various taxi drivers offering their services but nice to see the old Hindustan Ambassadors. It was about a 30 minutes drive through heavy Calcutta traffic around some parks, and through underpasses before we arrived at the hotel.

We had a few days in Calcutta which was enough time to try and find the black hole – really difficult and it is split in to two or three different places, including in a working post office! There was also Mother Theresa’s home but I didn’t visit that. Instead I did a walking tour around some of the city which was great and it took me to places I don’t think I would have ordinarily visited if I were on my own, where some of the locals were washing themselves in the streets.

Once again one of our original tour guides was leaving the trip here and was heading over to New Zealand. So we had another great leaving meal as a group in ‘Oh Calcutta’ restaurant. I am not sure if that’s a chain but I really enjoyed it.

The next day  I explored a few of the local parks that were not too far from the hotel and ended up back near Oh Calcutta. Feeling peckish I tried a restaurant next door and whilst it was quite disappointing they were doing 2 for 1 on drinks. Later on in the afternoon, met up with a few of the others and as there was 2 for 1 on drinks it seemed like a good idea to spend the afternoon there 🙂 Later at night, we found a jail themed restaurant where all the serving staff were in prison uniforms and our table was in a cell. It was quite interesting and fun.

Taxis dropped us off at Calcutta station around 21:00 hrs as we were to board the 22:05 hrs night train to Siliguri, arriving around 09:00 hrs the next morning. The bunks were in three tiers not just two, but there just enough space, even with all our luggage to lay down. I had the top bunk again and although there wasn’t sufficient space to sit up, it was more than comfortable enough. I actually had a pretty decent night’s sleep as the train slowly trundled its way, rocking us to sleep. I was woken up early-ish as some sellers board the train to sell tea, coffee and breakfast. The coffee was pretty good, but quite bizarre given that we were about to enter tea territory.

There were several jeeps waiting for us at the station to transfer us up to the mountain town of Darjeeling, famed for its tea. The roads were narrow and winding, not dissimilar to the ‘death road’ in Bolivia, often single track on the edge of a mountain with blind hairpin bends which the drivers seemed to take with casual abandon and a blast of the horn. We stopped for tea along the way which had nice views over the valley and a waterfall in the distance.

Continuing up the mountain, the temperature was dropping quite fast and it felt very different to the heat of Calcutta. I was still wearing shorts and T-shirt, but could see some of the locals in hats and down jackets, so it must be cold. This is the first time since leaving England that I have experienced single figure temperatures so it was a little culture shock when I got out of the jeep. Darjeeling seems to be a collection of villages huddled along hairpin roads on the mountainside rather than one large town. As we drove up the road, the views through the valley were obscured by thick heavy mist but periodically, there would be a little clearing and you realised how high up we are. The road also zigzags across a narrow gauge railway too. This belongs to the famous steam Toy Train that runs approx 79 km from New Jalpaiguri and rises over 6,400ft to Darjeeling at 6,812ft and this is one of the must do activities in Darjeeling.

The next day, following breakfast in the hotel was about to venture out, but still wearing shorts and t shirt, I saw a local man done up with down coat, hat, gloves etc. go outside, shiver and mutter a few words in Nepalese or Tibetan and come back in, so it must have been really cold. At that point, even after a warming bowl of porridge I thought it best to go and get changed…

Darjeeling itself wasn’t as picturesque as I was anticipating but I found a little tea shop, Glenary’s, that reminded me of the one by the old clock tower in St Albans.

They served great tea, coffee, cakes and snacks and they even had a red telephone box inside too. It was a nice town with plenty of things to do and a pedestrianised area that helped. Visited the Happy Valley Tea Plantation which is the highest tea plantation in the world and the tour was only 100 Nepalese rupees and lasted about 30mins. The tour only went around the factory, rather than out amongst the tea plants themselves but still quite interesting.

Later visited the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute located in the zoo. Very interesting to see some of the old mountaineering equipment used on previous expeditions including Sir Edmund Hillary’s and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay’s tools and clothes, etc. Outside the from of the institute is a memorial statue of Tenzing Norgay and his grave too.

We later had afternoon tea which included sandwiches, scones, biscuits and cakes at the Windermere Hotel which maintains the tradition from the old colonial days. The good news is there was a roaring open fire in the room which kept it all cosy and warm. There were a couple of pianos too but we weren’t allowed to play them. It was getting dark by about 17:00 so not much of a view from the top of the look out. Even if it was daylight, the hill was completely surrounded by mist anyway.

Eventually managed to get a ticket for the Toy Train and only rode it for a couple of hours, to Ghoom and back. I was really looking forward to this and it was good fun. However the train seemed to constantly blow its whistle all the way warning any road users and pedestrians that it was coming – as if a big blue stream train in the road wasn’t a big enough giveaway…

Wyles Walkabout

Back in Marrakech

It seems ages since we left Marrakech but it was only a couple of weeks ago. Perhaps instead of the excitement and anticipation of looking forward to the upcoming adventure, it was a little more sad because everyone, now good friends, would be leaving soon, breaking up the group heading home back to their familiar lives and work. Fortunately we had a day lounging by the pool, soaking up the unbearably hot Moroccan sun with a few cold beers, followed by a night out for one last meal together. Good news is there was not a tajine in sight which we were all thankful for, plus it was at a particularly swanky hotel and we all felt a little underdressed. No doubt about it, the food was magnificent. I had a penne pasta with tomatoe and mozzarella and it was really, really delicious. Eating that, I could have been anywhere in the world but it was so good, I really didn’t care about my location.

The next day, after a few good byes, headed into town and the main square (Jemaa el Fnaa) in Marrakech and found a bar with a high vantage point to people watch, drink non alcoholic, ice cold fruit cocktails and sat there waiting for the sun to set and for all the vendors to start trading in earnest. It’s just too hot during the day. The square comes alive just before sunset with people selling juice, fruit, smokey BBQ’s and grills selling all sorts of meat including sheeps head, there are women offering henna tattoos, snake charmers, monkey wranglers etc. It’s an assault on the senses becoming overwhelming in the heat. I do feel quite sorry for the animals made to perform for tourists, wings clipped or kept on a short leash in pretty horrid conditions, but I guess the animals probably don’t know any other ‘life’. Amongst all the hustle and bustle, I found it quite claustrophobic and an invasion of personal space. Every vendor is shouting at you, running to meet you carrying a menu trying to invite you over but as adventurous as I am, I just didn’t fancy paying to play with a cobra or eat a sheeps head. Call me old fashioned…

Having changed from the hotel to a riad (Riad Le Jardin D’Abdou), I was so grateful to get back to the peace and tranquility. As before, the riad was in the medina in an old part of the town, about 15mins walk away from the tourist hot spots. I felt quite isolated in the area, maybe it was paranoia more than anything but I did feel vulnerable. I tried not to let it show by walking and looking confident which helped my frame of mind a lot. This is true in any city even back home. The thing is, everyone I have met here has been very helpful, friendly and welcoming, Moroccan people are so hospitable. Having said that, if you wander the souks and medinas with a guide, the storeholders tend to leave you alone. But venture in by yourself later on, then you become their ’prey’ – and they will pester you to visit their shop, but perhaps not as aggressive as those in Egypt though. I made it successfully back to the Riad which was an absolute joy to find. Staying there, I felt like royalty or if I had won the lottery. I could not have asked for a nicer place to stay (except for the location). It really makes you wonder what is behind all the other scuzzy looking doors you walk past…

Next day, I visited a place I have wanted for visit for some time now and as I had a day to kill before I caught my train to Casablanca, I visited Le Jardin Majorelle. I have seen it a few times on gardening shows and magazines etc., and it always looked good. You know sometimes when you see something on TV and you visit it and it doesn’t live up to expectations? Well, this was the complete opposite. It exceeded all my expectations. Even with some of it closed off for further development, it was amazing. I had a couple of hours to explore and it was so much more than just an ornamental garden. I was extremely grateful for the shade offered by the plants too, I could have easily spent longer. If ever you visit Marrakech, please visit Le Jardin Majorelle. You will not regret it.

Today, I checked out of the riad and caught the train from Marrakech to Casablanca. I got a first class ticket for 148 dirhams (about £12) and shared the cabin with 6 other people from Morocco, France and Algeria and we chatted for the whole journey of about 250km / 3-4 hours. I cannot get a return from Wokingham to London for less than £25 and in a carriage where nobody talks to anyone. We’ve got it so wrong in England.