Wyles Walkabout

Time for Thailand

I was nervous about the flight to Thailand; Nepal doesn’t have the best air travel safety record, but by booking with a reputable airline, Thai Airways, I hoped to avoid any catastrophe. Fortunately the flight was OK, zero turbulence and only 3 hours 20 minutes soit  wasn’t worth upgrading and actually had quite a lot of leg room as it happened. On board, I had a couple of drinks and a meal included which is quite a rarity from some airlines these days and as a bonus, it was good. Also watched the latest Mission Impossible film in between looking out the window at Mount Everest and various announcement interruptions.

The airport in Bangkok is really quite clean and modern, very different to the garden shed at the end of a runway in Nepal. Immigration was simple and efficient though I must get to an immigration office before 6th January and extend my visa exemption for another 30 days. The alternative would be to exit Thailand, to somewhere like Malaysia and re-enter Thailand for another 30 day visa exemption stamp in the passport. Haven’t quite decided yet.

It was a quick 30 minite transfer in a taxi for about 600 Baht (£12) and it dropped me off at the hotel near the Khaosan area of Bangkok. Have stayed here before but the hotel has since changed brand and ownership. I couldn’t quite believe how busy the road had become. Last time I was here there were only a few bars down the street, a few street vendors, massage places and travel and tour agents. That was 10 years ago, now there are many more bars and restaurants with live music every night which starts gently at around 20:00 hours and goes on until about 02:00 – 03:00 hours or until the last person leaves.

I dropped off my bags in the room and got changed back into shorts and sandals, having come from Nepal which whilst not cold, warranted wearing trousers and a fleece, but the sticky evening warmth of Bangkok was too much. I wondered down and around the Khaosan Road which brought back memories and it took all of about 2 minutes to hear the familiar call of, “Hallooo Meeeesstaaaahh!” from various street sellers and offers of massages, which you only ever seem to hear in Thailand. In addition, there were little old ladies with wooden ‘chirping frogs’, people with fried scorpions and spiders on sticks trying to sell them to various tourists.

The music was blaring out and managed to have a couple of pints of Chiang which was really refreshing and didn’t touch the sides. Bangkok has some of the best street food in the world, even in a very touristy section it is worth eating a Pad Thai or some spring rolls from the street vendors instead of a sit down restaurant. Cheaper, tastier and more hygienic. However, there are stalls selling various deep fried insects, bugs, spiders and the like but I chose to refrain.

Next morning after an oriental and continental breakfast, I decided to go on an exploration of the immediate area find my bearings. I managed to get a hair cut for 300 Baht though still need to have another as I think something got lost in translation and I was too polite to argue with a ladyboy armed with scissors. I also stocked up on some toiletries from a local Boots store. It’s really exciting this travelling lark… Pity I bought the toiletries from the first Boots I saw, as on the way to the Grand Palace, less than 1 km away from my hotel, there was a bigger Boots and 7-11 store which had everything I wanted and needed, but a lot cheaper. I contemplated going back to the hotel, collecting my purchases and returning them for a refund and then buying them at the other stores, but it was too hot and too much inconvenience to do. At least I know for next time…

It was a short, hot walk across some busy traffic to the Grand Palace. There’s a strict dress coded enforced so no shorts allowed but fortunately they sold trousers which were cheaper than my haircut, so got a pair which actually fit really well. Elasticated waist too which is handy because of all the delicious Thai food I am having to eat. What a shame… The palace itself was really, really busy but a must see attraction in Bangkok. I decided not to hire a tour guide here and just explore on my own. In hindsight probably I should have done, at least they could have taken pictures of me rather than try and do a selfie.

Had a really nice coconut and chicken soup for lunch with a couple of beers and wiled away the afternoon down by the riverside having a look at boat trips for next month.

I checked out of the hotel with minimal fuss and got a taxi to the station, collected my train ticket from the office opposite, over the road and boarded the train. The ticket office recommended collecting the ticket at least 2 hours before scheduled departure as the office can get busy which is fair enough. I got there about 11: 00 for a 13:00 train and I was the only customer in the office. Picked up the ticket and free bottle of water and crossed the road back to the station. The train was already in and I was able to board, even about an hour and a half early.

I had  booked a 2nd class air-conditioned sleeper train to take me to Chumphon where I am spending a few days before heading to Koh Tao. The train seats are wide and comfy with plenty of room but the train is a little ‘rustic’’ and rattles along the way. Every 15 minutes for so, someone walks past trying to sell drinks or food of varying sorts (thankfully no spiders or scorpions though).

The train was supposed to arrive in Chumphon at 21:12 but actually arrived over an hour later. Once again no big deal, as I had no connections to make and the seats were comfortable. Outside the station there were a handful of tuk tuks waiting – very different to the hustle and bustle of Bangkok.

I had a couple of days in Chumphon but the hotel was about 20 km away from any of the forests and the weather was really awful – thunder and lightening for the duration. I explored a bit and got soaked so decided to go for a swim in the pool. Was wet anyway. The room was absolutely lovely but this was just a stopping point before heading to Koh Tao for Christmas.

Wyles Walkabout

It felt right turning left

Was glad to get to the airport except for the faff of going through security at Cairo as they give you contradictory information, but you just roll with it. There was a big queue for the check in for the flight to Abu Dhabi but that was for the economy section. I had upgraded my flight so checked in on the no queue business class counter. The flights were Cairo to Abu Dhabi and Abu Dhabi to Hong Kong and I was checked in all the way through so I didn’t have to waste time in Abu Dhabi finding my bags and checking in again which was quite a releif.

After immigration there is another security checkpoint and here I have a lighter in my hand luggage confiscated. Seems odd they confiscate it here, when I have flown London to Marrakech, Casablanca to Cairo, Cairo to Sharm and Sharm to Cairo with it in my hand luggage without any issues. Personally I just think the fat sweaty oaf at security wanted to smoke and needed a light. If I had known, I would have put it in my hold luggage, but it’s only a lighter so no big issue.

The business class lounge was shared by several airlines and was not Etihad specific, but it wasn’t that impressive. I was beginning to regret booking it but at least it kept the riff raff away. Once on board however, I knew I made the right choice. Big comfy seat, plenty of leg room, decent in flight entertainment and good food, including ice cream.

At Abu Dhabi, have about 2hrs before the next flight leaves so just enough time to check into the business class lounge and have a drink, all gratis (well, paid for up front in the price). This lounge looks like what airlines advertise as business class, proper a la carte menu, snacks, free bar, WiFi, massages, showers, WiFi, comfy seating, and a whole load more. This was great. Sadly only had limited time as needed to get to the gate as the pane was boarding. Abu Dhabi is a surprisingly large airport. Boarding the plane the air stewardesses are greeting all the passengers and directing them towards the back of the plane but when it was my turn I turned left into business class, with oversized seats that convert to flat beds, large screen infotainment screens per seat, welcome drinks, hot towels, amenity kits, blanket, pillows, etc. and minimum of 3 windows per outer isle seat! It was a Boeing 787 Dreamliner, not the Airbus A380 I was hoping for, but still exceptionally comfortable.

Had an aperitif then a 3 course dinner which was so much better than the food in economy, plus had proper cutler, glasssware etc.

Flying over India at night, above the clouds, I saw spectacular lightning which must have lasted about an hour lighting up the night sky. Was grateful we were flying above it and not through it. It was getting late so positioned the seat into sleep mode and actually had a good few hours sleep.

When I woke up, we had about an hour and half before we were scheduled to land in Hong Kong so just enough time for breakfast and a freshen up before landing.

So it’s the first time I’ve been to Hong Kong, wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. Collected my bag and then bought an Octopus card (the same thing as an Oyster card in London) and got the underground to Central and then to Jordan station. My hotel was about a 5 min walk from the underground station but what I hadn’t taken into account was the volume of people and the humidity. It took a little longer to walk than 5 mins but not much more and by the time I reached my hotel (Nathan Hotel on Nathan Road) I was already drenched and could not wait to check in. Very nice lady on reception upgraded my room to one on 11th floor and it is really, really nice. I think because of the jet lag and time difference, despite having a decent sleep on the airplane, I was so tired that I showered and then went to sleep. When I woke up, it was 11.30am (Hong Kong time / 04.30 UK time) and it was overcast and raining. I haven’t seen or felt rain since May!

So the first day I wanted to go to Hong Kong Island but it’s actually raining quite hard and Victoria Peak is shrouded in cloud, so thought I’ve give that a miss and explore locally (Kowloon) instead. Kowloon Park is just a short walk from the hotel, covers 13 acres, has a lake and an aviary. It also has the Hong Kong heritage museum so I called in there to keep out of the rain, but also to escape the humidity.

I was feeling a bit peculiar, probably because of dehydration and not having eaten anything in a day, so needed to find some food. The smells as you walk passed some of the restaurants are fabulous, ginger, garlic, lemongrass, hot meat, and some are utterly stomach churning, usually the drains. But I find somewhere and have some beef noodles with pepper. Thought it best to avoid the ‘black eggs’ or the ‘pork bag’ just in case.

Soon I find myself down on the waterfront where the Star Ferry departs to Hong Kong island. Here there are plenty of shops, designer stores, shopping malls etc. and then I find ‘Garden of the Stars’ which is similar to Hollywood’s walk of fame where they have hand prints of some of China’s famous movie stars. Obviously there is a statue of Bruce Lee.

Next day try and get up early to head over to Hong Kong island. Caught the metro from Jordan to Central and then it was a short walk to The Peak Tram which takes just under 10mins to cover the 0.8mile distance, rising to nearly 400m above sea level.

Frustratingly had to queue for over an hour to get the ticket but I would have sooner done that, than walked it. Once at the top the ticket also granted access to the Sky Terrace where you can get great views, weather permitting, over Hong Kong Bay.

Later in the afternoon, I did something I always enjoy doing when I visit somewhere that has them, is go on one of those hop on, hop off, open topped tour buses that deliver an audio commentary in various language options as you go. The ticket covered 3 routes and includes return Star Ferry crossings, so I did the green route yesterday which covered areas such as Aberdeen and Stanley on Hong Kong island and then caught the ferry back to Kowloon at sunset.

Today I did the red route which covered the business and shopping districts and the blue route which was around the waterfront and Kowloon.

Am feeling pretty hungry right now so about to head out and see what the dinner options are. The hotel has a wide ranging menu but I just don’t fancy ‘poached loofah’ or ‘goose gizzards’.