Wyles Walkabout

Accommodation in Morocco

This is a directory of the places of where I stayed in Morocco with links to the hotels website if you are interested in taking a look. The hotels that don’t have a website can be found through the usual travel booking websites such as Expedia etc. There is a map showing where I travelled to in Morocco below the list of hotels and riads.

In general, all of the hotels were in a decent central location near to the major sites, were clean, quiet, comfortable, had free decent WiFi (mostly) and worth the money paid. In my opinion, the riads though were more ‘authentic’ and actually felt more Moroccan than most of the hotels and if you come to Morocco, I would encourage you to stay in a Riad not only because they are beautiful, the hospitality and welcome is genuine and not experienced in any hotel.

Breakfasts served in all of them were a good continental style with fresh fruits, juice, breads, pastries and eggs, but sometimes the coffee was questionable. Some evening meals, although good, became a little repetitive with meat or vegetable tajines and cous cous on offer so it made a nice alternative to eat out or visit a local shop to buy some snacks (bread, cheese, tomatoes etc.) and eat in the hotel’s lobby.

Morocco being a Muslim country, alcohol is not freely available in every restaurant or hotel, but is available to buy in ‘secret’ bottle shops or in a separate section of a Carrefour supermarket. Just be sure to check with the hotel if they allow you to drink it on their premises first.

Marrakech
Riad Andalouse ****

Hotel el Andalous ****

Riad Jardin D’Abdou ****

Casablanca
Moroccan House Hotel ***

Meknes
Hotel Akouas ***

Chefchaouen
Hotel Tarek **

Fes
Hotel Arena ***

Midelt
Hotel Kasbah Asmaa ***

Todra Gorge
Kasbah Amazir ***

Ait Benhaddou
La Rose du Sable **

Essaouira
Hotel Miramar ***

Wyles Walkabout

Casablanca to Chefchaouen

So am a few days behind in updating the blog so this is quite a big one. Sorry about that, but it has just been non-stop so far, visiting exotic and exciting places, doing tours and exploring so have not really had the time or in some places, the WiFi available. But am not just travelling to sit in a lovely sea-fronted, air conditioned hotel in Essaouira (which is more like Monaco than Morocco) drinking an ice cold beer just to update a blog but guess it has to be done. Hard life for some eh…?

Leaving Casablanca early-ish, we drove straight to Rabat (Morocco’s capital city) and visited Oudaia Kasbah, Hasan Tower, the Royal Palace and Chellah. Thankfully the minibus is air coniditioned as we’re all struggling with the heat, now at approx. 40 degrees centigrade. Covering up with a massive hat for some shade and factor 50, am thinking I should have packed an asbestos suit and a welders helmet instead… Fortunately there are stalls almost everywhere selling watermelon or fresh squeezed orange juice which is so refreshing in this heat.

Regardless of your personal religious beliefs, it is near impossible not to be impressed with the scale and grandeur of the mosques and palaces here. They are beyond comprehension.

After Rabat and Meknès, we headed towards Chefchaouen stopping off at the UNESCO listed Roman ruins in Volubilis which date back to AD40. I have visited other Roman ruins in England before, St Albans (aka Verulanium) and Bath but these are so well preserved it was easy to imagine how Roman life may have been. Really felt like I was in Gladiator, or with the characters in this group, Carry On Cleo… 🙂

Perhaps one of the most surprising towns in Morocco, is Chefchaouen. It’s located high up in the Rif mountains and is characterised by the blue and white walled medina, originally a Berber post. To me, the ‘streets’ are near impossible to navigate, are narrow, cobbled, uneven and all look identical. All are blue and white, all stall holders sell the same sort of things and there are very few identifiable landmarks except maybe a central square or a fountain – if you can find them… Add the heat and a little dehydration and it can become an overwhelming and stressful experience. At least the stall holders are not like those in Egypt who hassle you to come into their shops to buy something.

So not wanting to by some ‘tourist tat’ I left the group and spent at least 1-2 hours alone trying to find my way back to the main square. Getting lost in places like this was an experience, but not one I’d like to repeat. Down one street, up another, round the corner, carry on, go down, turn left, change level, down another street etc. And I end back where I started even though I was adamant I was heading in the right direction. In the end I conceded and had to ask for help from one of the shop keepers. I guess they are used to tourists getting lost.

Next morning, we successfully navigated the town then hiked about 30 mins to visit a Spanish church high up above Chefchaouen so you could get a view of this incredible place. It does impress…

Wyles Walkabout

Of all the places in all the world…

So, departure day finally came round after months of waiting and anticipation.

I stayed at a hotel near Gatwick the night before departure which was fortunate as there were issues affecting all the trains. Anyway all checked in with British Airways and I survived the ‘chemical assault’ that is the duty free perfume department.

A very pleasant flight lasting just over 3 hours and I landed in Marrakech. What I didn’t anticipate was the 1-2 hour queue through immigration but as I had no immediate agenda or time limit, it really didn’t bother me. There was a driver waiting for me and accommodation was booked so all was good. The drive from the airport was an eye opener but the manic driving chaos seems to work as they all do it. However seeing the district and streets where my riad was, my heart sank a little and I thought to myself what have I done. I wouldn’t walk down this street in day time, let alone after dark. It was scruffy to say the least, piles of building material left over, graffiti, rubbish here there and everywhere, people hanging around and certainly not a touristy area at all. Actually, this is great. This is a locals area living their lives how they do. Who am I to judge?

Once inside the riad though. Oh my god. What a difference, a real tranquil oasis away from the all noise, madness and heat.

This was a different world and the staff were so nice it felt more like I was staying at a friends house rather than a paying guest. They even arranged for a local guide to show me around Marrakech and showed my some of the palaces, took me through the souks and avoided a lot of the tourist tat traps. I was a really nice way to spend a late morning and early afternoon.

The pastillas were really tasty lunch treat (filo pastry with shredded chicken, herbs, spices, cinnamon and icing sugar).

It was a shame to check out a couple of days later, but being woken at 04.45 each day for a call to prayer from the loudspeaker outside the riad took me my surprise as I do like my full 8 hours…

Got a transfer to a ‘western’ hotel in the new town and despite its stupidity oversized swimming pool, which was lovely to cool off in, really it was not a patch on the riad. I had to switch hotel because I was meeting a new tour guide / group and this was the joining hotel. They all seem a very decent crowd and sure we’ll all get on well. The food has been ok so far but already a few days in and if I see another tajine…

So today we left the hotel in an air conditioned (thankfully!) minibus and drove about 3 hours to Casablanca. Have only scratched the surface here so far, but had a tour of Hassan 2 mosque which can accommodate 25,000 worshipers.


We also called at Rick’s Bar. If Casablanca were filmed here (which none of it was), Bogart would have been a sweaty mess wearing a dinner suit as it’s touching 40 degrees Celsius.