We were fortunate enough to have a stay scheduled at Karmi Farm and it was a nice to move on. It took about 45mins just to get out of Darjeeling due to heavy traffic and narrow streets. Once outside of the town, we stopped by a roadside stall to secure our bags on the roofs of the jeeps, it was about a 3 hour drive. It wasn’t so much the distance as it was only about 20km as the crow flies, but it was on the far side of the next steep valley.

The roads, if you can call them roads, were single track hairpins, pot hole ridden often with signs of mud slides and collapse. At one point we came face to face with JCBs and tipper trucks carrying out repairs. We had to wait about 20mins for them to finish loading and move out of the way as the road was completely blocked while they were working but it didn’t stop various locals trying to push past beeping their horns as if that will magically make the blockage disappear.

We were lucky if the jeeps ever got above 10mph on the rough, uneven hairpin roads. On one sharp corner, we met a truck coming the other way and had to reverse quite a way back to find a relatively safe passing point, but we were literally on the edge of a very high drop. To add to the excitement, there was still some lingering mist and fog in patches. I really enjoyed this drive and it was a complete highlight. It felt like I was genuinely on a real adventure, not just a passenger.

In contrast to the roads, Karmi Farm is more of a tranquil homestay than a farm run by an English man and his wife who also set up the Karmi farm clinic bringing much needed medical knowledge and supplies to the this remote region in the foothills of the Himalayas in India. I was happy to donate some of the medication I was carrying as have been like a mobile pharmacy which has helped various people on my travels.

The building, location and views were simply breath taking and I was extremely envious of the place. It was a very remote setting, water from a spring, no WiFi, open fire places, clean fresh air and it had a warm healthy wholesomeness about it. Very difficult to describe.

During the days spent here, we went off on various guided hikes. Nothing too strenuous and none that lasted more than 3 or 4 hours.

It got dark around 17.00hrs so was back showered and changed ready for dinner which was really good. The beer was on an honesty tab system which worked really well. All vegetables were home grown and tasted so good. In the evening we moved to one of the lounges which had a roaring fire to keep more than a chill out of the air and played a few games and quizzes. It was a really nice relaxing few days and I would recommend anyone who visits this region to come here if you are able.

It was a shame to be leaving Karmi Farm. I could have quite happily spent the rest of my days there, but needs must. The jeeps were waiting for us for another exciting adventure drive along those narrow and dangerous roads. Instead of heading to Darjeeling, we moved on to Gangtok. Before we got there, we stopped by a tea plantation for a quick brew. The view wasn’t bad either…

Gangtok was nicer than Darjeeling but still similar. It had a nice pedestrianised shopping road which reminded me a little of Shanghai but on a much, much smaller scale. On one night we found a little bar and hauled up there for the night, drinking and getting free popadoms and mo-mo’s (steamed dumplings). It was really reasonable too. On the way back to the hotel found a statue of Mahatma Gandhi so had to have a photo with it, “Andy and Gandhi”…

On the walk back to the hotel, we decided that it should have been Andy and Mandy eating candy, reading the Dandy with Gandhi, which would have been handy… We had had a bit to drink.

Early start leaving Gangtok, meant to get the jeeps at 05.00hrs but after a couple of people slept in, we actually left closer to 06.00hrs. Not a major issue, but it was quite quiet and chilly at the time but still warm enough to get away with a t shirt. By the time the jeeps were loaded and we finally left Gangtok, the place was starting to come alive, with various traders setting up their stalls, taxi drivers looking out for customers in anticipation, rubbish collectors etc. But it wasn’t long before the roads started getting busy again. Sometimes it was difficult to tell whether the on-coming traffic was a scooter or motorbike or a lorry with one light. Trying to avoid various pot holes and rough surfaces often meant driving on the opposite sides of the road too and swerving in at the last minute to avoid a collision.

It was a drive of a couple of hours before we stopped somewhere for breakfast , nothing fancy but the coffee was good and well needed. It was also an opportunity to stretch the legs for a wee while. After breakfast it was another hour or so before we reached the truck park in Siluguri and we rejoined the Dragoman truck once more. Seemed strange getting on board again, like seeing an old friend, but the last couple of weeks I barely gave the truck a second thought.

Soon underway, perhaps the most noticeable thing is the change from peaceful tranquil, clean mountain scenery and fresh air to the heat, noise, litter and busyness of Silaguri. It was about an hour drive to the Indian / Nepal border which seemed to go by in a flash. Once parked up it was only a short walk to the immigration office to get the exit stamp in the passport. Was actually quite relieved to be leaving India. I have thoroughly enjoyed it, especially from Delhi to Mumbai and then from Pondicherry all the way up the east side of India, but south of Mumbai on the west coast am quite happy to forget and not just because I was ill then.

Crossing the bridge at Kakabitta in no mans land between India and Nepal was uneventful and I was surprised by the efficiency of Nepalese immigration and was expecting to have to wait for hours, similar to Morocco, but it was a quick in, fill out a form, pay $25US for a 15 days visa and there you go.

I couldn’t believe I was now in Nepal, the 5th country on this walkabout, and it didn’t look anything l ike what I was expecting. I had visions of high mountain villages, snow capped mountains, glacial rivers and forests lined with all sorts of prayer flags. I’m sure within the next 15 days I will see these, But for now, it was flat, hot enough to make me wish I was wearing shorts, and had quite fertile farm land.

The sun had just set by the time we arrived at the campsite. The safari tents were a permanent fixture with thatched roofs, electricity, comfy warm twin beds and a fully plumbed bathroom (complete with frogs). Not at all what I was expecting when I heard that we would be camping. This was glamping. In the evening we had a delicious vegetarian Nepal dinner but it was early to bed following a very early start as wasn’t able to have an afternoon nap.

In the morning after breakfast, there was a 3 hour walk with two guides. It was hot and flat, enjoyable but along a raised path and back, with the guides pointing out each and every variety of bird they saw from vultures and eagles, to kingfishers and woodpeckers. I was quite chuffed to spot the python in the grass that everyone else missed until I pointed it out.