On the drive to Chennai we stopped at the Chennai Snake Park, to witness a venom milking of the cobras and crate snakes. They also have crocodiles and there were thousands of those in various enclosures, but it had started to rain and at least the snake milking was undercover. There was a pit about 4 foot deep and about the size of a small swimming pool containing about 200 terracotta jars in which the snakes were kept. There were 5 cobras and 3 crate snakes that I could see coiled up on a table. The guide would pick a snake up by the head and squeeze it gently but firmly until it showed its fangs, which look like needles, and then positioned the snakes head by a jar with a rubber seal on the top. The snakes fangs were pushed through the rubber, simulating a bite reaction, which in turn allowed the venom to flow. The snake produced about 15-20ml of venom and the guide told us it would be enough to kill about 20 people.
While we were watching the snakes the heavens opened. Within seconds the roads turned into rivers. Honestly, you would be drier if you fell into a swimming pool with the amount of rain coming down. The truck was parked about 200m from the snake park and because of the rain, we all ran back. I can only imagine the terror for anyone passing by, assuming that all the snakes and crocodiles were escaping, seeing tourists run for their lives.
Didn’t really do much in Chennai. The hotel wasn’t great, nor was the food but was completely soaked through. There were options to go and see various temples or museums but by this point I really couldn’t be bothered. So I just explored the surrounding streets which looked pretty much like any other Indian town, with the same advertising hoardings, litter and smells. The station in Chennai looked a little like a smaller version of St Pancras.
Once out of Chennai, the north east side of India really started to improve. Instead of being dusty, dirty, and crowded, it was becoming far more lush with a lot more vegetation. The twisty roads were becoming narrower as they rose up into the mountains, with small remote villages dotted along the way. The air was starting to feel a little cleaner too. Pretty soon jungle started to hug the mountain side and it felt a little cooler in the shade of the trees, but it was still in excess of 30 degrees. It’s weird, but I had a feeling of being ‘alive’ whilst here. Some of the turns on the road were so tight, that the truck could not make round in one go so we ended up having to do a 5 point turn just to make it around. At one stage the hairpin was so tight that we all had to get off the truck just case the turn wasn’t successful. It was quite an achievement but it was a good excuse to stretch the legs and have a jungle loo stop.
We were now entering the Odisha Tribal region of India were very few tourists visit so it was as real privilege to be able to go here.
In Goudaguda we stayed at the Chandoori Sai Guesthouse which is owned and run by an Australian guy. The food were was terrific and it was a pleasure to eat some ‘western food’. Roast Chicken dinner with chilled wine and apple pie for desert – it was just what my taste buds needed.
We were here for a couple of nights but I could have stayed much longer. During the days we walked to and around local Paroja, Mali and Kondh villages which were lovely and are renowned for earthen pottery.
We watched them effortlessly create the most ornate pots within seconds from nothing more than a lump of clay collected from the river and a spinning wheel controlled by the operators feet.
Diwali, the festival of light, happened while we were in this region. Originally were meant to stay in Baliguda but due to some local political disruption, we weren’t able to make the planned accommodation. I don’t actually know where we ended up staying but it was relatively off the beaten track and know the lift played really loud music when the safety doors were open which you could hear in the room. For Diwali people were letting fireworks off in the street left, right and centre. Health and safety was right out of the window, just like some rockets and bangers… Some landed really close and my ears were ringing from the bangs that I could hardly hear people shouting’ “Happy Diwali!” These are much louder fireworks than the ones you get back home. There was a meal laid on in a street side restaurant and one of the highlights was ‘chicken 65’, very similar to a Chinese sweet and sour chicken and very nice.
The next few days were in a town called Puri, one of the holiest pilgrimage places in India. We arrived mid afternoon but it seems most shops and restaurants close after lunch and re-open in the evening. I was really hungry but the only thing I was able to find to eat was a packet of crisps. Still it tidied me over until dinner later that night. The hotel had a pool, but my room wasn’t near it or that great. The bed was warped and the mattress U-shaped. I was on the front, ground floor of the hotel right by the road side so had car horns going off until the very small hours and despite travelling since July, this is the first and only time I have had a squat style toilet in a room. I tried to change rooms but there was no availability.
Late in the afternoon, we had a cycle rickshaw ride to visit various Ashrams, temples, monasteries which was nice. I did feel sorry for the guy having to pedal me around but I guess they are used to carrying two people in the rickshaw.
We stopped at one of the craziest markets I have ever been to and it was pandemonium. What should have been a 5 min walk took 45 mins, due to the volume of people and beggars, to get to the library where palm leaf manuscripts are kept. We were able to access the roof here and see the Jaganarth temple at sunset. Not being Hindu, were not able to access the temple itself.
The next day was fun and very gentle. It was a 1 hour minibus drive to Chilika Lake, the largest brackish water lagoon in India famed for its birds and dolphins. We boarded long tail boats and had a very pleasant ride with everyone keeping an eye out to see if they could see the dolphins but no joy.
Soon we arrived at, not sure if it was either an island or a spit of land on the other side, but we disembarked and had a nice walk for a few hours and saw various wildlife including kingfishers, eagles and water buffalo. There was a very nice BBQ lunch laid on which had all the usual suspects there including giant prawns. However not liking fish or seafood, I donated my share to the group who were grateful. A quick hop onto the boats for the ride back to the minibus, once again everyone was keeping their eyes peeled for dolphins and this time it paid off, albeit far off in the distance.
The last day in Puri was a cycle ride. Initially we were all apprehensive about cycling in India due to traffic, cows, the state of the roads etc. but the route itself was off the beaten track and on quiet well maintained roads and cycle paths and was really enjoyable even with speed bumps that I would take quickly as if I were still riding at Swinley Forest. At one stage we got stopped by the police, not for dangerous riding or anything, but they just wanted to have a selfie with us. Seemed bizarre, but not going to argue with the Indian police. The ride lasted all morning but I could have quite happily rode all afternoon too, but we were there to visit the UNESCO world heritage site of the Konark Sun Temple, conceived as a giant chariot, believed to be one of Indias greatest temples.
