Am actually starting to feel a little tired already as pretty much since arriving in Morocco, it has been non stop adventure, exploring and exhausting heat. Can’t believe am saying that as am not even one month into this Walkabout and I know there will be a lot more exhaustive travel ahead. It sounds strange as most of the actual travelling in Morocco so far (1,430 miles / 2,300km) has been in a comfortable air conditioned minibus, but where we have stopped or stayed it has been pretty full on.
Heading over to Essaouira, a colourful fishing town with 15th Century Portuguese forts on the windy Atlantic coast, we drove the twisting and turning Atlas Mountain road which look like they were left on the cutting room floor from the opening scenes of The Italian Job.
Opening the doors of the minibus and the temperature difference was noticeable immediately, even with the air-con on full. After sweltering in the Sahara heat, to be suddenly faced with cold winds I was glad I packed a soft shell jacket and long trousers. But the cool air was so refreshing I could have stayed for a few days more as the heat had penetrated my bones and I needed to cool down to a more acceptable ‘English climate’. Saying that, I do not know when I am going to experience a temperature below 30 degrees centigrade again.
The hotel was right on the beach and in a funny sort of way, reminded more of Monaco than Morocco. The medina is UNESCO-listed and it was a pleasure to wonder around as the streets were a little wider, had fewer motorcycles wizzing by and it seemed far less hectic than the medinas and souks of Fes, Chefchaouen or Marrakech. It also didn’t smell anywhere near as bad (despite being a fishing port) and the cool temperature made it comfortable to wonder around. We found a fantastic Italian restaurant and had pizza which was amazing. There are only so many tajine or skewers you can eat… Unfortunately with all the change in temperature, in and out of the minibus, or if it was just tajine withdrawal symptoms, I found myself coming down with a head cold so I dosed myself up with lots with fresh squeezed orange juice and really didn’t venture out of the hotel that much. Pity, as I didn’t come travelling to spend time in a hotel room, no matter how lovely it was. The head cold didn’t stop me from joining my fellow travellers for a refreshing beer on the roof terrace though.
It was a shame to leave Essaouira but we needed to head back to Marrakech, to where it all began. Difficult to believe that in only 15 days have experienced a country so diverse in landscapes, climates and people, from mountains to deserts, to ski resorts and chilly coastal towns, to hot and busy crowded towns and markets with crazy drivers. Everyone I have met here is so friendly and welcoming, certainly appears more so than back home. But there were still more surprises to come. On the drive back to Marrakech, I thought the head cold was playing tricks on my eyes as I was certain I saw a tree full of goats. I had heard rumours that they do climb trees here, but never thought I’d see it. Sure enough, there was a tree full of goats and I got to hold one…