The next day, after a few good byes, headed into town and the main square (Jemaa el Fnaa) in Marrakech and found a bar with a high vantage point to people watch, drink non alcoholic, ice cold fruit cocktails and sat there waiting for the sun to set and for all the vendors to start trading in earnest. It’s just too hot during the day. The square comes alive just before sunset with people selling juice, fruit, smokey BBQ’s and grills selling all sorts of meat including sheeps head, there are women offering henna tattoos, snake charmers, monkey wranglers etc. It’s an assault on the senses becoming overwhelming in the heat. I do feel quite sorry for the animals made to perform for tourists, wings clipped or kept on a short leash in pretty horrid conditions, but I guess the animals probably don’t know any other ‘life’. Amongst all the hustle and bustle, I found it quite claustrophobic and an invasion of personal space. Every vendor is shouting at you, running to meet you carrying a menu trying to invite you over but as adventurous as I am, I just didn’t fancy paying to play with a cobra or eat a sheeps head. Call me old fashioned…

Having changed from the hotel to a riad (Riad Le Jardin D’Abdou), I was so grateful to get back to the peace and tranquility. As before, the riad was in the medina in an old part of the town, about 15mins walk away from the tourist hot spots. I felt quite isolated in the area, maybe it was paranoia more than anything but I did feel vulnerable. I tried not to let it show by walking and looking confident which helped my frame of mind a lot. This is true in any city even back home. The thing is, everyone I have met here has been very helpful, friendly and welcoming, Moroccan people are so hospitable. Having said that, if you wander the souks and medinas with a guide, the storeholders tend to leave you alone. But venture in by yourself later on, then you become their ’prey’ – and they will pester you to visit their shop, but perhaps not as aggressive as those in Egypt though. I made it successfully back to the Riad which was an absolute joy to find. Staying there, I felt like royalty or if I had won the lottery. I could not have asked for a nicer place to stay (except for the location). It really makes you wonder what is behind all the other scuzzy looking doors you walk past…

Next day, I visited a place I have wanted for visit for some time now and as I had a day to kill before I caught my train to Casablanca, I visited Le Jardin Majorelle. I have seen it a few times on gardening shows and magazines etc., and it always looked good. You know sometimes when you see something on TV and you visit it and it doesn’t live up to expectations? Well, this was the complete opposite. It exceeded all my expectations. Even with some of it closed off for further development, it was amazing. I had a couple of hours to explore and it was so much more than just an ornamental garden. I was extremely grateful for the shade offered by the plants too, I could have easily spent longer. If ever you visit Marrakech, please visit Le Jardin Majorelle. You will not regret it.

Today, I checked out of the riad and caught the train from Marrakech to Casablanca. I got a first class ticket for 148 dirhams (about £12) and shared the cabin with 6 other people from Morocco, France and Algeria and we chatted for the whole journey of about 250km / 3-4 hours. I cannot get a return from Wokingham to London for less than £25 and in a carriage where nobody talks to anyone. We’ve got it so wrong in England.

Heading over to Essaouira, a colourful fishing town with 15th Century Portuguese forts on the windy Atlantic coast, we drove the twisting and turning Atlas Mountain road which look like they were left on the cutting room floor from the opening scenes of The Italian Job.

Opening the doors of the minibus and the temperature difference was noticeable immediately, even with the air-con on full. After sweltering in the Sahara heat, to be suddenly faced with cold winds I was glad I packed a soft shell jacket and long trousers. But the cool air was so refreshing I could have stayed for a few days more as the heat had penetrated my bones and I needed to cool down to a more acceptable ‘English climate’. Saying that, I do not know when I am going to experience a temperature below 30 degrees centigrade again.

The hotel was right on the beach and in a funny sort of way, reminded more of Monaco than Morocco. The medina is UNESCO-listed and it was a pleasure to wonder around as the streets were a little wider, had fewer motorcycles wizzing by and it seemed far less hectic than the medinas and souks of Fes, Chefchaouen or Marrakech. It also didn’t smell anywhere near as bad (despite being a fishing port) and the cool temperature made it comfortable to wonder around. We found a fantastic Italian restaurant and had pizza which was amazing. There are only so many tajine or skewers you can eat… Unfortunately with all the change in temperature, in and out of the minibus, or if it was just tajine withdrawal symptoms, I found myself coming down with a head cold so I dosed myself up with lots with fresh squeezed orange juice and really didn’t venture out of the hotel that much. Pity, as I didn’t come travelling to spend time in a hotel room, no matter how lovely it was. The head cold didn’t stop me from joining my fellow travellers for a refreshing beer on the roof terrace though.

It was a shame to leave Essaouira but we needed to head back to Marrakech, to where it all began. Difficult to believe that in only 15 days have experienced a country so diverse in landscapes, climates and people, from mountains to deserts, to ski resorts and chilly coastal towns, to hot and busy crowded towns and markets with crazy drivers. Everyone I have met here is so friendly and welcoming, certainly appears more so than back home. But there were still more surprises to come. On the drive back to Marrakech, I thought the head cold was playing tricks on my eyes as I was certain I saw a tree full of goats. I had heard rumours that they do climb trees here, but never thought I’d see it. Sure enough, there was a tree full of goats and I got to hold one…

Fez (with a Z) is the red hat, Fes (with an S) is the city. Fes is the oldest and largest medieval city in the world. Similar to Marrakech and Chefchaouen its streets are a labyrinth, crowded, busy, hot and a severe assault your sense of smell. There are, apparently, themed tourist routes to follow and I did see signs but it is so easy to become severely disoriented in the medina, even following a guide. There are shops selling all sorts from fresh produce, clothes, carpets, silverware, pottery, snacks and sweets to electrical goods. What I wasn’t expecting as we were led through the twisting and turning streets, was the butchery section. I’m a carnivore and will happily continue to eat meat but if I was of a more sensitive nature I may have turned vegetarian. I cannot begin to describe how it smelled but in close to 40 degrees, I will say that my gag reflex kicked in early and I had to make a sharp exit as best I could, but not knowing where to go, I had to wait for the guide and group a little further on.

Unfortunately, one of the next places to visit on this medina tour was the tannery. Again, I have no issue with leather things, but it smelled really bad. Hot, dry animal skins, urine, pidgeon poo, sweat, rubbish, the lot. It was vile and is one of those smells that penetrates your clothes. Even the donkeys carrying the skins made me wish I had a scuba tank on my back so I could breathe some clean air.

In the evening, there was some organised Moroccan entertainment, music belly dancing etc. However wasn’t really in the mood for that – after the smell assault and also it was the night Croatia beat England 2 – 1 so just sat quietly and had a beer with a few of the others.

Next day we began our journey towards the Sahara but totally surprised by the Alpine style town of Ifrane. Had no idea that Morocco had a ski resort. But had an absolutely fantastic coffee and chocolate cheesecake. A couple of hours later we stopped by a river for a picnic made up of cheese, chicken, tomatoes, salad and watermelon. I know all this travelling is hard… When we got to our hotel in Midelt the exterior was fabulous and wall really excited about staying there but the rooms were a little shabby, and we’re in Morocco, not 5* in London but it was really nice and there was a pool which was a god send. Skipped the afternoon hike and relaxed by the pool with a beer instead.

I remember as a kid hearing about the Sahara desert and always wondered what it would be like but never thought I would ever visit it, let alone stay overnight there. We arrived late afternoon, but even so the temperature was pushing in excess of 45 degrees centigrade and the camels were ready to take us in to the desert to a Berber camp. I really don’t like camels and my one was giving a look as if to say there is no way you’re getting on my hump! So we kind of silently and mutually agreed that I would walk and the camel would carry my bag. The trek into the desert was only about 1.5 – 2 hours but if you got lost or separated, it could potentially be a death sentence.

Once at the camp we watched the sunset but there was quite a bit of wind and sand in the air so it didn’t look as spectacular as I expected, but still an awesome experience.

After a dinner of meat skewers (no idea what the meat was…) and veggies, there was some music and drumming etc around the camp fire as if the guides were possessed and it went on until after midnight.

I had hardly any sleep – the tents were too hot and the millions and billions of stars shone so bright as there was little light pollution but I was amazed by the amount of shooting stars I saw. Wish I could have spent longer there, but it would have been a tough experience.

Waking up before dawn, the group rode camels (and I walked) out of the desert. Still picture the film ‘Ice Cold in Alex’ and feeling the relief of reaching civilisation and having a cold drink.

After the intense heat and experience of the Sahara, we drove to a really nice hotel in Todra Gorge – apparently Morocco’s Grand Canyon, but on a much smaller scale. The hotel was perfect and I must have spend about an hour in the shower cooling off. Had probably once of the nicest and most refreshing dinners here, lots of fresh salad and juicy tomatoes. Ideal to try and fully rehydrate after the desert. A lot of Moroccans visit the gorge in the same way most English would head to the seaside on a sunny bank holiday weekend. The cliffs were about 1000ft high and all made of limestone – which brought back GCSE Geography memories.

So after a lovely night at the hotel by Todra Gorge, we travelled to Ait Benhaddou and visited the film studios in Ouarzazate where they filmed the likes of Gladiator, Last Temptation of Christ, the Living Daylights and Lawrence of Arabia to name a few. I know it was a film set but some of the sets did feel real until you touched or picked up props which were made of polystyrene or plaster. However it did feel more like Life of Brian…

Leaving Casablanca early-ish, we drove straight to Rabat (Morocco’s capital city) and visited Oudaia Kasbah, Hasan Tower, the Royal Palace and Chellah. Thankfully the minibus is air coniditioned as we’re all struggling with the heat, now at approx. 40 degrees centigrade. Covering up with a massive hat for some shade and factor 50, am thinking I should have packed an asbestos suit and a welders helmet instead… Fortunately there are stalls almost everywhere selling watermelon or fresh squeezed orange juice which is so refreshing in this heat.

Regardless of your personal religious beliefs, it is near impossible not to be impressed with the scale and grandeur of the mosques and palaces here. They are beyond comprehension.

After Rabat and Meknès, we headed towards Chefchaouen stopping off at the UNESCO listed Roman ruins in Volubilis which date back to AD40. I have visited other Roman ruins in England before, St Albans (aka Verulanium) and Bath but these are so well preserved it was easy to imagine how Roman life may have been. Really felt like I was in Gladiator, or with the characters in this group, Carry On Cleo… 🙂

Perhaps one of the most surprising towns in Morocco, is Chefchaouen. It’s located high up in the Rif mountains and is characterised by the blue and white walled medina, originally a Berber post. To me, the ‘streets’ are near impossible to navigate, are narrow, cobbled, uneven and all look identical. All are blue and white, all stall holders sell the same sort of things and there are very few identifiable landmarks except maybe a central square or a fountain – if you can find them… Add the heat and a little dehydration and it can become an overwhelming and stressful experience. At least the stall holders are not like those in Egypt who hassle you to come into their shops to buy something.

So not wanting to by some ‘tourist tat’ I left the group and spent at least 1-2 hours alone trying to find my way back to the main square. Getting lost in places like this was an experience, but not one I’d like to repeat. Down one street, up another, round the corner, carry on, go down, turn left, change level, down another street etc. And I end back where I started even though I was adamant I was heading in the right direction. In the end I conceded and had to ask for help from one of the shop keepers. I guess they are used to tourists getting lost.

Next morning, we successfully navigated the town then hiked about 30 mins to visit a Spanish church high up above Chefchaouen so you could get a view of this incredible place. It does impress…

I stayed at a hotel near Gatwick the night before departure which was fortunate as there were issues affecting all the trains. Anyway all checked in with British Airways and I survived the ‘chemical assault’ that is the duty free perfume department.

A very pleasant flight lasting just over 3 hours and I landed in Marrakech. What I didn’t anticipate was the 1-2 hour queue through immigration but as I had no immediate agenda or time limit, it really didn’t bother me. There was a driver waiting for me and accommodation was booked so all was good. The drive from the airport was an eye opener but the manic driving chaos seems to work as they all do it. However seeing the district and streets where my riad was, my heart sank a little and I thought to myself what have I done. I wouldn’t walk down this street in day time, let alone after dark. It was scruffy to say the least, piles of building material left over, graffiti, rubbish here there and everywhere, people hanging around and certainly not a touristy area at all. Actually, this is great. This is a locals area living their lives how they do. Who am I to judge?

Once inside the riad though. Oh my god. What a difference, a real tranquil oasis away from the all noise, madness and heat.

This was a different world and the staff were so nice it felt more like I was staying at a friends house rather than a paying guest. They even arranged for a local guide to show me around Marrakech and showed my some of the palaces, took me through the souks and avoided a lot of the tourist tat traps. I was a really nice way to spend a late morning and early afternoon.

The pastillas were really tasty lunch treat (filo pastry with shredded chicken, herbs, spices, cinnamon and icing sugar).

It was a shame to check out a couple of days later, but being woken at 04.45 each day for a call to prayer from the loudspeaker outside the riad took me my surprise as I do like my full 8 hours…

Got a transfer to a ‘western’ hotel in the new town and despite its stupidity oversized swimming pool, which was lovely to cool off in, really it was not a patch on the riad. I had to switch hotel because I was meeting a new tour guide / group and this was the joining hotel. They all seem a very decent crowd and sure we’ll all get on well. The food has been ok so far but already a few days in and if I see another tajine…

So today we left the hotel in an air conditioned (thankfully!) minibus and drove about 3 hours to Casablanca. Have only scratched the surface here so far, but had a tour of Hassan 2 mosque which can accommodate 25,000 worshipers.