But we get back to the hotel at a reasonable hour, time enough for dinner and a few drinks. Next day was a visit to the Egyptian museum. The building itself looks as if it was an old Victorian railway station with its grand entrance and archways but I don’t think it was.

The museum is spread over two floors and is crammed with items discovered from ancient Egypt, the tombs and temples. There were plenty of sarcophaguses and mummies, statues, alabaster jars, tools, jewellery, daggers, head pieces etc. There was a small hall dedicated to the royal mummies and one hall for Tutankhamun. Tutankhamun’s golden head mask was on display with very strict security and you were not allowed to take any photographs. The mask is made of pure gold, weighs 11kg and measures 54 x 39 x 49cm.

There is a new museum being constructed at Giza, just 2km from the Pyramids. Costing more than US$1 billion, the new museum will be the size of approximately 10 football fields and should open early 2019. Depends on the Egyptian builders… It will re-house and restore some of the country’s most precious relics.

After the museum visit, headed over to Khan El Khalili Bazar, which is basically a market down narrow streets and lanes with stalls selling anything and everything from tourist tat to fridges. It was very similar to the medinas in Morocco and as there was nothing I wanted to buy, mainly because of the amount of travelling I still have left, decided to leave and head back to the hotel. That was easier said than done as the narrow streets suddenly came alive, now very packed with people and each street looking pretty much the same. Eventually found my way and rewarded myself with an ice cream.

Back at the hotel and looking at the tickets, I realise just how many historic sites I have visited in Egypt, all individual and unique. Very difficult to chose a favourite. The Pyramids were great but I was put off because of the amount of hassle you get to buy things. Temple at Karnak was huge and too busy (it took ages to try and get photographs without anyone in the background). Valley of the Kings was fabulous but on the surface looked like a quarry, the treasures were all underground. But I think my favourite was the Nile cruise. Such an iconic thing to do in Egypt.

Final few days in Cairo and I changed hotel to one not far from the Pyramids. In fact, you can see the Pyramids from the pool 🙂 Really not a bad way to end my trip to Egypt but the time has come to move on to country number 3 and I fly to Hong Kong later today. Am really looking forward to Hong Kong and China but also looking forward to the flight in business class on Etihad. Not bad for someone who is unemployed…

The boat was the M/S Marquis Nile cruiser, has 67 double cabins with 2 suites and the itinerary was from Aswan heading downstream to Luxor, taking only 3 days to cover 240km. I was surprised just how quiet and smooth the cruise was, with very little noise or vibration from the engines. On board there was a restaurant deck where the buffet breakfast, lunch and dinners were served, a bar deck above that and a huge sun deck on top which also had a smallish swimming pool. I think it would have been very difficult for anyone with mobility issues to navigate some of the stairs between the decks as there were no lifts.

There was an early morning visit scheduled to Edfu Temple. Begrudgingly we were woken up early to get there for about 06.00hrs purely to avoid the heat, the crowds of tourists and to ensure the boat departs on time. Once there, we realised the early start was worth it because we were the only tour group there. Edfu was a settlement and cemetery site from around 3000 BC onward. It was the ‘home’ and cult centre of the falcon god Horus of Behdet (the ancient name for Edfu).

Back on the boat by lunchtime with an ice-cold G&T in hand, we head off downstream, sitting on the sun deck lazily watching the world go by. The Nile is lined with green and lush palm trees of sorts but about 100m or so beyond the green seemed to be just baron desert, sand and rocks.

There were a few boats moored up, some Felucas tacking across the river with their sails high but generally the traffic on the river was very little. I was amazed at how quick the boat was travelling. At one point I paid a visit to the captain to say hello and he let me have a steer of the boat and press the horn. Felt like a big kid, but when am going to do that again? Found out that the captains of these boats have little education (otherwise he probably would not have let me have a steer…) but all have at least 30 years experience navigating on the Nile which is all done from memory to avoid the shallows etc. as the boats are not equipped with any kind of depth gauge or sonar.

There was a lock that the boat had to navigate through which was just wide enough for the boat. Some of the local traders know this is a ‘pinch point’ as the boats have to slow down, so it is here they mount an amphibious assault trying to sell their towels and shirts etc. Often rowing dangerously close in front of the boat and inside the lock too, while throwing samples in plastic bags to the top deck. Fortunate they were in plastic bags as well because one or two ended up in the pool. There was quite a bit of bartering and haggling going on over about 40ft but I don’t think anyone on board bought anything.

The dinners were a really nice buffet with the usual kind of things, rice, vegetables, chicken etc. and good puddings too. Afterwards there was an ‘entertainment show’ put on with a belly dancer and whirling dervishes but it’s not really as good as it sounds, so we headed to the sun deck and a had a few more drinks in the cooler evening air. It’s here I saw one of the other passengers who looked like Hercule Poirot so started to get a little concerned, especially if he were to call everyone together to identify the murderer. Fortunately it didn’t happen, but it was slightly disappointing they didn’t play more on the Agatha Christie theme.

Next evening we visited Luxor Temple which was a pleasure to visit at night, if for nothing else just to see a temple lit up in a different light. Very few of the temples and tombs are open at night as it would cost too much to power, despite solar becoming more available.

Next morning we had arrived at our destination and it was time to depart the boat. Shame as I could have quite happily stayed on board and cruised all the way to Cairo as it was so comfortable, but time just didn’t allow. Next on the agenda was perhaps one of the sites I was most looking forward to in Egypt, the Temple at Karnak – mostly because of the James Bond film, The Spy Who Loved Me. Once again the scale and details of these temples is simply mind blowing. They made these about 4000 years ago on a truly epic scale yet find it difficult to make a decent road these days (probably due to funding I suspect). I could have spent all day here but it was too hot, needed to get the coach back to Cairo and sadly was getting a little ‘temple fatigue’.

Once again it was a 10 – 11 hour drive to Cairo but somehow the seats seemed so much more comfortable, probably because I had a double seat to myself. But a word of advice. If you come to Egypt and travel between Cairo and Luxor by road, unless you need fuel, please do not stop for a ‘comfort break’ at the road side services unless you are wearing wellington boots and have a peg for your nose. The toilets are simply disgusting. They are the squat type toilets where everyone has missed the target zone, the floors are flooded (over the level of sandals or flip-flops) with a pungent mix of poo, urine, water and dead flies. The guys working there have a squeegee mop but instead of actually cleaning up properly, they seem to just spread it about to ensure an even covering for some unknown reason. That smell mixed with the volume of living flies and the high 30s / low 40s temperature makes it repulsive. Better off stopping on the side of the road and taking your chances with Egyptian drivers.

But, it’s all part of the experience and am certain that on this Walkabout, I will experience worse… Fingers crossed I won’t, but am sure I will. 🙂

I knew the transfer would take about an hour and in Egyptian traffic, that would be 1 hour more than I wanted. So relieved to finally arrive at the hotel and simply enjoy the air con and a cold drink.

Early start the next morning, about 05.00hrs, and headed over to Sakkarra which is the ancient capital of Egypt. It took about 2 hours on an air-conditioned bus to get there but saw the first stone stepped pyramid which was built 27th Century BC, in the Third dynasty for the burial of Pharaoh Djoser by his vizier, Imhotep, long before the more famous pyramids at Giza.

Already it was close to 40 degrees centigrade and it was quite uncomfortable in that heat, even that early in the morning. So back on the bus and back to Cairo to spend some time at The Great Pyramids and The Sphinx. The heat was unbelievable, as were the flies, sadly the amount of litter, but worst of all were the hawkers try to sell you tourist trinkets or trying to get you to ride a camel or go in a horse and carriage for an overinflated price. Even after 3 or 4 “no thank you’s”, they persist to the point where it no longer feels rude about blanking and ignoring them.

That aside though, the pyramids are spectacular and the scale is immense, 146.5m tall and each side base is 230.4m long. The Great Pyramid was built as a tomb for the Egyptian pharaoh Khufu, it took approximately 20 years to build and has three burial chambers inside. Still many theories exist as to how they were build but no matter how they were, it is almost incomprehensible that they were build in this heat. Surely the climate could not have been that different between then and now and they reckon at least 5,000 workers died during the construction. Each block of the granite and limestone is said to weigh between 3-7 tonnes. Plenty of tourists around taking selfies etc, so just to blend in…

The Sphinx (head of a man and body of a lion) also located by the Pyramids, is a lot smaller than I was expecting, only 19m high, but it’s still the largest Sphinx in Egypt. Some restoration work visibly underway so cannot get to close to it at this time unfortunately.

So after these amazing sites, it was back on the bus and back to the hotel to collect luggage and then the dreaded 410mile (10 – 12 hour) bus journey to Luxor began. It took about 2 – 3 hours just to clear Cairo’s city limit, mostly because of traffic but was just thankful for the air-conditioning. It was a long, slightly cramped journey where just as you doze off, there is a speed bump to jolt you awake. This went on mile after mile and lost count of the amount of police / security checkpoints we had to go through. Some we were just waved through, others we were stopped and had to wait for armed escort vehicles. Despite all this, being stopped in the middle of Egypt in the middle of the night with no light pollution, I could see the Milky Way. Amazing. Eventually, we arrived in Luxor at a fantastic hotel at 03.30 in the morning. All I wanted to do is sleep and zonked out immediately.

Unfortunately there was an early start next morning at 07.00hrs. Doing this to try and avoid the heat, but about a 1 – 2 hour bus ride to visit Valley of the Kings and Hatchepsut Termple. The Valley of the Kings itself is not that impressive, just looks like a quarry, but this is where many of the Pharos and kings were buried, including Tutankhamun.

Luckily we got into Tutankhamun’s tomb and saw him, well, what was left off him. He was about 18-19 when he did and was about 5ft tall. His remains are blackened and you can only see his head and his feet – the rest of him is covered in a white cloth, but you can still see him, his teeth, hair, nails etc. In a way, kind of looks like the sacrificial sausage on a BBQ – you the one that always gets burned first. The sarcophagus was separate and intricately decorated but you are not allowed to take photos inside Tutankhamun’s tomb. There are several other tombs in which you can but only if you pay 300LE (about £13) and the hieroglyphics are so colourful and preserved.

After this, we moved on to Hatchepsut Temple, which is probably what most people think of when they hear Valley of the Kings. It’s actually a Royal mortuary on the West Bank of the Nile built 15th century BC by Queen Hatshepsut, stepmother of pharaoh Thutmose III. Visibly amazing to see.

There are so many sites to visit here in Egypt, but perhaps one of the top ancient sites to see is Abu Simbel. Built by King Ramses II and cut into solid rock, they are known as the “Temple of Ramesses, beloved by Amun” it was one of six rock temples erected in Nubia during the long reign of Ramesses II. Their purpose was to impress Egypt’s southern neighbours, and also to reinforce the status of Egyptian religion in the region. Here there are two temples next to each other, one for his favourite wife and one for himself. Quite rare to find a wife on equal status of the king.

What is even more amazing is that when the Aswan High Dam was constructed in the 1960’s, Abu Simbel would have been flooded. So a major relocation project went under way to raise the Abu Simbel 65m higher up and just over 200m further inland to avoid the flooding.

After Abu Simbel, visited the Aswan High Dam. This was really interesting and is one of Egypts most heavily protected sites. When it was build it produced 90% of Egypt’s electricity but now only 10% due to population increase. It’s 111m high and stretches nearly 4km. Lake Nasser holds nearly 170 trillion cubic meters of water and it is reckoned that if the dam were to fail, the water would reach Alexandria and the Mediterranean, just over 1000km away, in under 30mins.

After the ‘GCSE Geography revisit’, quick stop at Philae Temple on an island now protected from flooding since the Aswan High Dam was built.

That’s a lot of sites, tombs and temples squeezed into a couple of days. It’s now time for some serious rest and relaxation. I am now on board a Nile cruiser, M/S Marquis and will be cruising to Luxor for the next few days, stopping off at Edfu on the way. Good news is there is a pool, great food and a great bar. Time for a G & T…

It was about a 5hr flight from Casablanca to Cairo on EgyptAir and it was a comfortable flight which included a meal service and had quite a decent inflight entertainment system too. I was pleasantly surprised.

Once in Cairo, there was no let up in the heat, again close to 40 degrees centigrade. The transfer from the airport to my hotel took approx 1hour in what was I can only describe as a cross between MarioKart, WRC, a demolition derby and a free for all. The drive was not a nice relaxing experience. The ring road was crazy fast and had no logical order. Seems if there was a gap, no matter how small between you and the car infront, fill it before someone else does and whoever has the loudest horn has priority. There were flat bed trucks transporting people (unsecured and in excess of 70mph), even saw a Lada fitted with an aftermarket spoiler – why? Occasionally there was a speed bump on the motorway, no warning or anything and everyone brakes at the last second. I can only assume the observation of the drivers is second to none but in saying that I did not see one car without any damage, scratches, dents or bits missing.

It was an absolute relief to arrive at the hotel for the night in Giza, Pyramids View. As the name suggests, you can see the Pyramids from the hotel and they did not disappoint. It was dark when I arrived and had just missed the light and sound show but still an impressive sight. A lot of people say look the other way when at the Pyramids and you’ll see fast food outlets – and they are right. Shame really, but after all those tajines in Morocco, I did treat myself to a KFC and a beer.

I only spent 1 night in Cairo as next day, I was heading to the Red Sea diving resort of Sharm El Sheikh. I have been there a few times before and it was nice to return and meet up with some old friends. I know in recent years, the tourist industry in Sharm has declined following terrorist activity and shark ‘attacks’, but it was nice to see it slowly on up again. As a result, the reefs are recovering and the marine life thriving as it is not being ‘over-dived’.

I was in Sharm for just over a week, diving 5 days and it was amazing. It was nearly 20 years ago that I first dived in Sharm and this is where I fell in love with diving. It was even more amazing to be diving on my birthday and witnessing such beautiful marine life in its natural environment. Thanks to professional underwater photographer, Cinzia Osele, for taking these pictures of me.

Now back in Cairo and am about to start exploring what else this country has to offer.

The next day, after a few good byes, headed into town and the main square (Jemaa el Fnaa) in Marrakech and found a bar with a high vantage point to people watch, drink non alcoholic, ice cold fruit cocktails and sat there waiting for the sun to set and for all the vendors to start trading in earnest. It’s just too hot during the day. The square comes alive just before sunset with people selling juice, fruit, smokey BBQ’s and grills selling all sorts of meat including sheeps head, there are women offering henna tattoos, snake charmers, monkey wranglers etc. It’s an assault on the senses becoming overwhelming in the heat. I do feel quite sorry for the animals made to perform for tourists, wings clipped or kept on a short leash in pretty horrid conditions, but I guess the animals probably don’t know any other ‘life’. Amongst all the hustle and bustle, I found it quite claustrophobic and an invasion of personal space. Every vendor is shouting at you, running to meet you carrying a menu trying to invite you over but as adventurous as I am, I just didn’t fancy paying to play with a cobra or eat a sheeps head. Call me old fashioned…

Having changed from the hotel to a riad (Riad Le Jardin D’Abdou), I was so grateful to get back to the peace and tranquility. As before, the riad was in the medina in an old part of the town, about 15mins walk away from the tourist hot spots. I felt quite isolated in the area, maybe it was paranoia more than anything but I did feel vulnerable. I tried not to let it show by walking and looking confident which helped my frame of mind a lot. This is true in any city even back home. The thing is, everyone I have met here has been very helpful, friendly and welcoming, Moroccan people are so hospitable. Having said that, if you wander the souks and medinas with a guide, the storeholders tend to leave you alone. But venture in by yourself later on, then you become their ’prey’ – and they will pester you to visit their shop, but perhaps not as aggressive as those in Egypt though. I made it successfully back to the Riad which was an absolute joy to find. Staying there, I felt like royalty or if I had won the lottery. I could not have asked for a nicer place to stay (except for the location). It really makes you wonder what is behind all the other scuzzy looking doors you walk past…

Next day, I visited a place I have wanted for visit for some time now and as I had a day to kill before I caught my train to Casablanca, I visited Le Jardin Majorelle. I have seen it a few times on gardening shows and magazines etc., and it always looked good. You know sometimes when you see something on TV and you visit it and it doesn’t live up to expectations? Well, this was the complete opposite. It exceeded all my expectations. Even with some of it closed off for further development, it was amazing. I had a couple of hours to explore and it was so much more than just an ornamental garden. I was extremely grateful for the shade offered by the plants too, I could have easily spent longer. If ever you visit Marrakech, please visit Le Jardin Majorelle. You will not regret it.

Today, I checked out of the riad and caught the train from Marrakech to Casablanca. I got a first class ticket for 148 dirhams (about £12) and shared the cabin with 6 other people from Morocco, France and Algeria and we chatted for the whole journey of about 250km / 3-4 hours. I cannot get a return from Wokingham to London for less than £25 and in a carriage where nobody talks to anyone. We’ve got it so wrong in England.

Heading over to Essaouira, a colourful fishing town with 15th Century Portuguese forts on the windy Atlantic coast, we drove the twisting and turning Atlas Mountain road which look like they were left on the cutting room floor from the opening scenes of The Italian Job.

Opening the doors of the minibus and the temperature difference was noticeable immediately, even with the air-con on full. After sweltering in the Sahara heat, to be suddenly faced with cold winds I was glad I packed a soft shell jacket and long trousers. But the cool air was so refreshing I could have stayed for a few days more as the heat had penetrated my bones and I needed to cool down to a more acceptable ‘English climate’. Saying that, I do not know when I am going to experience a temperature below 30 degrees centigrade again.

The hotel was right on the beach and in a funny sort of way, reminded more of Monaco than Morocco. The medina is UNESCO-listed and it was a pleasure to wonder around as the streets were a little wider, had fewer motorcycles wizzing by and it seemed far less hectic than the medinas and souks of Fes, Chefchaouen or Marrakech. It also didn’t smell anywhere near as bad (despite being a fishing port) and the cool temperature made it comfortable to wonder around. We found a fantastic Italian restaurant and had pizza which was amazing. There are only so many tajine or skewers you can eat… Unfortunately with all the change in temperature, in and out of the minibus, or if it was just tajine withdrawal symptoms, I found myself coming down with a head cold so I dosed myself up with lots with fresh squeezed orange juice and really didn’t venture out of the hotel that much. Pity, as I didn’t come travelling to spend time in a hotel room, no matter how lovely it was. The head cold didn’t stop me from joining my fellow travellers for a refreshing beer on the roof terrace though.

It was a shame to leave Essaouira but we needed to head back to Marrakech, to where it all began. Difficult to believe that in only 15 days have experienced a country so diverse in landscapes, climates and people, from mountains to deserts, to ski resorts and chilly coastal towns, to hot and busy crowded towns and markets with crazy drivers. Everyone I have met here is so friendly and welcoming, certainly appears more so than back home. But there were still more surprises to come. On the drive back to Marrakech, I thought the head cold was playing tricks on my eyes as I was certain I saw a tree full of goats. I had heard rumours that they do climb trees here, but never thought I’d see it. Sure enough, there was a tree full of goats and I got to hold one…

Fez (with a Z) is the red hat, Fes (with an S) is the city. Fes is the oldest and largest medieval city in the world. Similar to Marrakech and Chefchaouen its streets are a labyrinth, crowded, busy, hot and a severe assault your sense of smell. There are, apparently, themed tourist routes to follow and I did see signs but it is so easy to become severely disoriented in the medina, even following a guide. There are shops selling all sorts from fresh produce, clothes, carpets, silverware, pottery, snacks and sweets to electrical goods. What I wasn’t expecting as we were led through the twisting and turning streets, was the butchery section. I’m a carnivore and will happily continue to eat meat but if I was of a more sensitive nature I may have turned vegetarian. I cannot begin to describe how it smelled but in close to 40 degrees, I will say that my gag reflex kicked in early and I had to make a sharp exit as best I could, but not knowing where to go, I had to wait for the guide and group a little further on.

Unfortunately, one of the next places to visit on this medina tour was the tannery. Again, I have no issue with leather things, but it smelled really bad. Hot, dry animal skins, urine, pidgeon poo, sweat, rubbish, the lot. It was vile and is one of those smells that penetrates your clothes. Even the donkeys carrying the skins made me wish I had a scuba tank on my back so I could breathe some clean air.

In the evening, there was some organised Moroccan entertainment, music belly dancing etc. However wasn’t really in the mood for that – after the smell assault and also it was the night Croatia beat England 2 – 1 so just sat quietly and had a beer with a few of the others.

Next day we began our journey towards the Sahara but totally surprised by the Alpine style town of Ifrane. Had no idea that Morocco had a ski resort. But had an absolutely fantastic coffee and chocolate cheesecake. A couple of hours later we stopped by a river for a picnic made up of cheese, chicken, tomatoes, salad and watermelon. I know all this travelling is hard… When we got to our hotel in Midelt the exterior was fabulous and wall really excited about staying there but the rooms were a little shabby, and we’re in Morocco, not 5* in London but it was really nice and there was a pool which was a god send. Skipped the afternoon hike and relaxed by the pool with a beer instead.

I remember as a kid hearing about the Sahara desert and always wondered what it would be like but never thought I would ever visit it, let alone stay overnight there. We arrived late afternoon, but even so the temperature was pushing in excess of 45 degrees centigrade and the camels were ready to take us in to the desert to a Berber camp. I really don’t like camels and my one was giving a look as if to say there is no way you’re getting on my hump! So we kind of silently and mutually agreed that I would walk and the camel would carry my bag. The trek into the desert was only about 1.5 – 2 hours but if you got lost or separated, it could potentially be a death sentence.

Once at the camp we watched the sunset but there was quite a bit of wind and sand in the air so it didn’t look as spectacular as I expected, but still an awesome experience.

After a dinner of meat skewers (no idea what the meat was…) and veggies, there was some music and drumming etc around the camp fire as if the guides were possessed and it went on until after midnight.

I had hardly any sleep – the tents were too hot and the millions and billions of stars shone so bright as there was little light pollution but I was amazed by the amount of shooting stars I saw. Wish I could have spent longer there, but it would have been a tough experience.

Waking up before dawn, the group rode camels (and I walked) out of the desert. Still picture the film ‘Ice Cold in Alex’ and feeling the relief of reaching civilisation and having a cold drink.

After the intense heat and experience of the Sahara, we drove to a really nice hotel in Todra Gorge – apparently Morocco’s Grand Canyon, but on a much smaller scale. The hotel was perfect and I must have spend about an hour in the shower cooling off. Had probably once of the nicest and most refreshing dinners here, lots of fresh salad and juicy tomatoes. Ideal to try and fully rehydrate after the desert. A lot of Moroccans visit the gorge in the same way most English would head to the seaside on a sunny bank holiday weekend. The cliffs were about 1000ft high and all made of limestone – which brought back GCSE Geography memories.

So after a lovely night at the hotel by Todra Gorge, we travelled to Ait Benhaddou and visited the film studios in Ouarzazate where they filmed the likes of Gladiator, Last Temptation of Christ, the Living Daylights and Lawrence of Arabia to name a few. I know it was a film set but some of the sets did feel real until you touched or picked up props which were made of polystyrene or plaster. However it did feel more like Life of Brian…

Leaving Casablanca early-ish, we drove straight to Rabat (Morocco’s capital city) and visited Oudaia Kasbah, Hasan Tower, the Royal Palace and Chellah. Thankfully the minibus is air coniditioned as we’re all struggling with the heat, now at approx. 40 degrees centigrade. Covering up with a massive hat for some shade and factor 50, am thinking I should have packed an asbestos suit and a welders helmet instead… Fortunately there are stalls almost everywhere selling watermelon or fresh squeezed orange juice which is so refreshing in this heat.

Regardless of your personal religious beliefs, it is near impossible not to be impressed with the scale and grandeur of the mosques and palaces here. They are beyond comprehension.

After Rabat and Meknès, we headed towards Chefchaouen stopping off at the UNESCO listed Roman ruins in Volubilis which date back to AD40. I have visited other Roman ruins in England before, St Albans (aka Verulanium) and Bath but these are so well preserved it was easy to imagine how Roman life may have been. Really felt like I was in Gladiator, or with the characters in this group, Carry On Cleo… 🙂

Perhaps one of the most surprising towns in Morocco, is Chefchaouen. It’s located high up in the Rif mountains and is characterised by the blue and white walled medina, originally a Berber post. To me, the ‘streets’ are near impossible to navigate, are narrow, cobbled, uneven and all look identical. All are blue and white, all stall holders sell the same sort of things and there are very few identifiable landmarks except maybe a central square or a fountain – if you can find them… Add the heat and a little dehydration and it can become an overwhelming and stressful experience. At least the stall holders are not like those in Egypt who hassle you to come into their shops to buy something.

So not wanting to by some ‘tourist tat’ I left the group and spent at least 1-2 hours alone trying to find my way back to the main square. Getting lost in places like this was an experience, but not one I’d like to repeat. Down one street, up another, round the corner, carry on, go down, turn left, change level, down another street etc. And I end back where I started even though I was adamant I was heading in the right direction. In the end I conceded and had to ask for help from one of the shop keepers. I guess they are used to tourists getting lost.

Next morning, we successfully navigated the town then hiked about 30 mins to visit a Spanish church high up above Chefchaouen so you could get a view of this incredible place. It does impress…

I stayed at a hotel near Gatwick the night before departure which was fortunate as there were issues affecting all the trains. Anyway all checked in with British Airways and I survived the ‘chemical assault’ that is the duty free perfume department.

A very pleasant flight lasting just over 3 hours and I landed in Marrakech. What I didn’t anticipate was the 1-2 hour queue through immigration but as I had no immediate agenda or time limit, it really didn’t bother me. There was a driver waiting for me and accommodation was booked so all was good. The drive from the airport was an eye opener but the manic driving chaos seems to work as they all do it. However seeing the district and streets where my riad was, my heart sank a little and I thought to myself what have I done. I wouldn’t walk down this street in day time, let alone after dark. It was scruffy to say the least, piles of building material left over, graffiti, rubbish here there and everywhere, people hanging around and certainly not a touristy area at all. Actually, this is great. This is a locals area living their lives how they do. Who am I to judge?

Once inside the riad though. Oh my god. What a difference, a real tranquil oasis away from the all noise, madness and heat.

This was a different world and the staff were so nice it felt more like I was staying at a friends house rather than a paying guest. They even arranged for a local guide to show me around Marrakech and showed my some of the palaces, took me through the souks and avoided a lot of the tourist tat traps. I was a really nice way to spend a late morning and early afternoon.

The pastillas were really tasty lunch treat (filo pastry with shredded chicken, herbs, spices, cinnamon and icing sugar).

It was a shame to check out a couple of days later, but being woken at 04.45 each day for a call to prayer from the loudspeaker outside the riad took me my surprise as I do like my full 8 hours…

Got a transfer to a ‘western’ hotel in the new town and despite its stupidity oversized swimming pool, which was lovely to cool off in, really it was not a patch on the riad. I had to switch hotel because I was meeting a new tour guide / group and this was the joining hotel. They all seem a very decent crowd and sure we’ll all get on well. The food has been ok so far but already a few days in and if I see another tajine…

So today we left the hotel in an air conditioned (thankfully!) minibus and drove about 3 hours to Casablanca. Have only scratched the surface here so far, but had a tour of Hassan 2 mosque which can accommodate 25,000 worshipers.