Time for Thailand

Posted on 24th December 20182nd February 2019 by Andy

I was nervous about the flight to Thailand; Nepal doesn’t have the best air travel safety record, but by booking with a reputable airline, Thai Airways, I hoped to avoid any catastrophe. Fortunately the flight was OK, zero turbulence and only 3 hours 20 minutes soit wasn’t worth upgrading and actually had quite a lot of leg room as it happened. On board, I had a couple of drinks and a meal included which is quite a rarity from some airlines these days and as a bonus, it was good. Also watched the latest Mission Impossible film in between looking out the window at Mount Everest and various announcement interruptions.

The airport in Bangkok is really quite clean and modern, very different to the garden shed at the end of a runway in Nepal. Immigration was simple and efficient though I must get to an immigration office before 6th January and extend my visa exemption for another 30 days. The alternative would be to exit Thailand, to somewhere like Malaysia and re-enter Thailand for another 30 day visa exemption stamp in the passport. Haven’t quite decided yet.

It was a quick 30 minite transfer in a taxi for about 600 Baht (£12) and it dropped me off at the hotel near the Khaosan area of Bangkok. Have stayed here before but the hotel has since changed brand and ownership. I couldn’t quite believe how busy the road had become. Last time I was here there were only a few bars down the street, a few street vendors, massage places and travel and tour agents. That was 10 years ago, now there are many more bars and restaurants with live music every night which starts gently at around 20:00 hours and goes on until about 02:00 – 03:00 hours or until the last person leaves.

I dropped off my bags in the room and got changed back into shorts and sandals, having come from Nepal which whilst not cold, warranted wearing trousers and a fleece, but the sticky evening warmth of Bangkok was too much. I wondered down and around the Khaosan Road which brought back memories and it took all of about 2 minutes to hear the familiar call of, “Hallooo Meeeesstaaaahh!” from various street sellers and offers of massages, which you only ever seem to hear in Thailand. In addition, there were little old ladies with wooden ‘chirping frogs’, people with fried scorpions and spiders on sticks trying to sell them to various tourists.

The music was blaring out and managed to have a couple of pints of Chiang which was really refreshing and didn’t touch the sides. Bangkok has some of the best street food in the world, even in a very touristy section it is worth eating a Pad Thai or some spring rolls from the street vendors instead of a sit down restaurant. Cheaper, tastier and more hygienic. However, there are stalls selling various deep fried insects, bugs, spiders and the like but I chose to refrain.

Next morning after an oriental and continental breakfast, I decided to go on an exploration of the immediate area find my bearings. I managed to get a hair cut for 300 Baht though still need to have another as I think something got lost in translation and I was too polite to argue with a ladyboy armed with scissors. I also stocked up on some toiletries from a local Boots store. It’s really exciting this travelling lark… Pity I bought the toiletries from the first Boots I saw, as on the way to the Grand Palace, less than 1 km away from my hotel, there was a bigger Boots and 7-11 store which had everything I wanted and needed, but a lot cheaper. I contemplated going back to the hotel, collecting my purchases and returning them for a refund and then buying them at the other stores, but it was too hot and too much inconvenience to do. At least I know for next time…

It was a short, hot walk across some busy traffic to the Grand Palace. There’s a strict dress coded enforced so no shorts allowed but fortunately they sold trousers which were cheaper than my haircut, so got a pair which actually fit really well. Elasticated waist too which is handy because of all the delicious Thai food I am having to eat. What a shame… The palace itself was really, really busy but a must see attraction in Bangkok. I decided not to hire a tour guide here and just explore on my own. In hindsight probably I should have done, at least they could have taken pictures of me rather than try and do a selfie.

Had a really nice coconut and chicken soup for lunch with a couple of beers and wiled away the afternoon down by the riverside having a look at boat trips for next month.

I checked out of the hotel with minimal fuss and got a taxi to the station, collected my train ticket from the office opposite, over the road and boarded the train. The ticket office recommended collecting the ticket at least 2 hours before scheduled departure as the office can get busy which is fair enough. I got there about 11: 00 for a 13:00 train and I was the only customer in the office. Picked up the ticket and free bottle of water and crossed the road back to the station. The train was already in and I was able to board, even about an hour and a half early.

I had booked a 2nd class air-conditioned sleeper train to take me to Chumphon where I am spending a few days before heading to Koh Tao. The train seats are wide and comfy with plenty of room but the train is a little ‘rustic’’ and rattles along the way. Every 15 minutes for so, someone walks past trying to sell drinks or food of varying sorts (thankfully no spiders or scorpions though).

The train was supposed to arrive in Chumphon at 21:12 but actually arrived over an hour later. Once again no big deal, as I had no connections to make and the seats were comfortable. Outside the station there were a handful of tuk tuks waiting – very different to the hustle and bustle of Bangkok.

I had a couple of days in Chumphon but the hotel was about 20 km away from any of the forests and the weather was really awful – thunder and lightening for the duration. I explored a bit and got soaked so decided to go for a swim in the pool. Was wet anyway. The room was absolutely lovely but this was just a stopping point before heading to Koh Tao for Christmas.

Nepal

Posted on 23rd December 20182nd February 2019 by Andy

Leaving the lovely glamping experience in Koshi National Park behind, we headed on towards the Chitwan National Park. The hotel here was perhaps one of the dirtiest, dingiest and most disgusting hotels I have ever stayed at. On the outside there were at least a dozen giant bee nests and they were swarming. The buzzing drone was quite noticeable. There was an option to do a safari into the Chitwan National Park for 3000 rupees, but upon further questioning found out that the trip doesn’t actually go into the park itself. It seemed a bit of a con so I declined, saved my money and sat by the river instead. Although a little peckish, I decided to give the snail curry a miss…

The roads were in a really good state, as good as any back home, if not better, and we made really good time. The drive should have taken about 9 hours but actually took closer to 5. It was quite scenic with the Trisuli River running alongside the road. Before we knew it, had arrived at the Royal Beach Camp, 85km west of Kathmandu, where we would stay one night. They run outdoor instructors courses here, some lasting several months, which seem very thorough and professional. Accommodation was camping, not glamping, unfortunately.

However, the tents were already set up, had a double layered mattress inside and a North Face -20 degree sleeping bag, so all in all it was quite a cozy nights sleep. The only down side is that there was no alcohol here. I kept quiet about a small bottle of whisky I had bought previously which was just the job to help keep some of the cold out. After dinner we sat around the camp fire and played a few games before retiring for the night.

In the morning there were a couple of activities of white water rafting, kayaking or hiking which were all good fun if not a little cold. The swimming pool was outdoors, and seemingly unheated but it looked so inviting until I dipped my toe into it.

After lunch we had packed up our things and were on the road again and it wasn’t long before we hit the notoriously bad Kathmandu traffic. It took about 3 hours to make it from the ring road to our hotel in Thamel. When the truck turned down the narrow road with our hotel on it, a few overhead cables became snagged on the truck and were pulled out as well as damaging a sign on a shop. A friendly bit of negotiation and a few Nepalese Rupees and all was sorted. The hotel was Hotel Tibet which was quite comfortable and they did a really good breakfast with excellent coffee, probably the best I have tasted.

As this was the last night of the Dragoman tour, we arranged a farewell dinner in a local restaurant which had a very strong French influence to it and the food was really nice, as was the wine. The only issue arose with the bill as we had switched tables with some people. There was 4 of them sitting on a table big enough for 15 and us huddled around a 4 person table. So logically we switched tables but the staff must have added their bill to ours. It took some sorting out and in the end it was all sorted.

A few of us went on for more leaving drinks after at Sam’s Bar in Thamel which was really quite smokey inside, even with an open air terrace. The service was good though. There was all sorts of doodles and writings on the walls from travellers in years gone by and I added my mark too 🙂

Later next morning we said our goodbyes to everyone who we had travelled with over the passed few weeks and in some cases, months. Really quite sad to be leaving such a great bunch of people but everyone has their own life adventures ahead of them, whether it’s returning home, starting new careers, moving houses or like me continuing travelling.

I had arranged to stay in a hotel for a few days extra, but didn’t realise it was about 6km away from the city centre. The Shambaling Boutique Hotel was indeed very nice however hardly any taxi driver knew where it was so the Maps.me.com saved me a few times. The roads however were simply appalling, countless potholes, dirt tracks, and no warning signs or anything HSE-wise. Am surprised more cars etc didn’t drive into the massive craters and disappear.

I got a taxi into town a couple of times to have a wander around and find Durba Square, Freak Street and do some shopping in many of the outdoor knock off shops.

It was quite busy but a nice level of busy without being over the top. Plenty of places to stop and have a bite to eat or just a quiet cup of coffee.

Outside of the hotel, was a little cafe called Cafe Ramsterdam and I ate here a couple of nights. It was really nice a friendly, loads of books and DVDs available to borrow and enjoy while you eat or drink.

I found a Lonely Planet guide to England and thought I would have a nose at it. To my amazement, the page for St Albans Abbey and Verulanium was already folded in as a book mark. I have come pretty much half way around the world, randomly gone into a cafe and found a book with a page marked where I used to live. I wondered in there is a book in St Albans with a page about Kathmandu and Cafe Ramsterdam folded too. Unlikely but you never know.

So since mid September, I have travelled down the west side of India, up the east side and crossed over into Nepal. It has been quite some journey and on the most part I have enjoyed all of it, even when I was ill. My favourite parts were basically the north from Delhi and Agra down to Mumbai and then from Pondicherry all the way up to Nepal. I could quite happily avoid south India including Goa.

Karmi Farm, Gangtok and into Nepal

Posted on 13th December 20182nd February 2019 by Andy

We were fortunate enough to have a stay scheduled at Karmi Farm and it was a nice to move on. It took about 45mins just to get out of Darjeeling due to heavy traffic and narrow streets. Once outside of the town, we stopped by a roadside stall to secure our bags on the roofs of the jeeps, it was about a 3 hour drive. It wasn’t so much the distance as it was only about 20km as the crow flies, but it was on the far side of the next steep valley.

The roads, if you can call them roads, were single track hairpins, pot hole ridden often with signs of mud slides and collapse. At one point we came face to face with JCBs and tipper trucks carrying out repairs. We had to wait about 20mins for them to finish loading and move out of the way as the road was completely blocked while they were working but it didn’t stop various locals trying to push past beeping their horns as if that will magically make the blockage disappear.

We were lucky if the jeeps ever got above 10mph on the rough, uneven hairpin roads. On one sharp corner, we met a truck coming the other way and had to reverse quite a way back to find a relatively safe passing point, but we were literally on the edge of a very high drop. To add to the excitement, there was still some lingering mist and fog in patches. I really enjoyed this drive and it was a complete highlight. It felt like I was genuinely on a real adventure, not just a passenger.

In contrast to the roads, Karmi Farm is more of a tranquil homestay than a farm run by an English man and his wife who also set up the Karmi farm clinic bringing much needed medical knowledge and supplies to the this remote region in the foothills of the Himalayas in India. I was happy to donate some of the medication I was carrying as have been like a mobile pharmacy which has helped various people on my travels.

The building, location and views were simply breath taking and I was extremely envious of the place. It was a very remote setting, water from a spring, no WiFi, open fire places, clean fresh air and it had a warm healthy wholesomeness about it. Very difficult to describe.

During the days spent here, we went off on various guided hikes. Nothing too strenuous and none that lasted more than 3 or 4 hours.

It got dark around 17.00hrs so was back showered and changed ready for dinner which was really good. The beer was on an honesty tab system which worked really well. All vegetables were home grown and tasted so good. In the evening we moved to one of the lounges which had a roaring fire to keep more than a chill out of the air and played a few games and quizzes. It was a really nice relaxing few days and I would recommend anyone who visits this region to come here if you are able.

It was a shame to be leaving Karmi Farm. I could have quite happily spent the rest of my days there, but needs must. The jeeps were waiting for us for another exciting adventure drive along those narrow and dangerous roads. Instead of heading to Darjeeling, we moved on to Gangtok. Before we got there, we stopped by a tea plantation for a quick brew. The view wasn’t bad either…

Gangtok was nicer than Darjeeling but still similar. It had a nice pedestrianised shopping road which reminded me a little of Shanghai but on a much, much smaller scale. On one night we found a little bar and hauled up there for the night, drinking and getting free popadoms and mo-mo’s (steamed dumplings). It was really reasonable too. On the way back to the hotel found a statue of Mahatma Gandhi so had to have a photo with it, “Andy and Gandhi”…

On the walk back to the hotel, we decided that it should have been Andy and Mandy eating candy, reading the Dandy with Gandhi, which would have been handy… We had had a bit to drink.

Early start leaving Gangtok, meant to get the jeeps at 05.00hrs but after a couple of people slept in, we actually left closer to 06.00hrs. Not a major issue, but it was quite quiet and chilly at the time but still warm enough to get away with a t shirt. By the time the jeeps were loaded and we finally left Gangtok, the place was starting to come alive, with various traders setting up their stalls, taxi drivers looking out for customers in anticipation, rubbish collectors etc. But it wasn’t long before the roads started getting busy again. Sometimes it was difficult to tell whether the on-coming traffic was a scooter or motorbike or a lorry with one light. Trying to avoid various pot holes and rough surfaces often meant driving on the opposite sides of the road too and swerving in at the last minute to avoid a collision.

It was a drive of a couple of hours before we stopped somewhere for breakfast , nothing fancy but the coffee was good and well needed. It was also an opportunity to stretch the legs for a wee while. After breakfast it was another hour or so before we reached the truck park in Siluguri and we rejoined the Dragoman truck once more. Seemed strange getting on board again, like seeing an old friend, but the last couple of weeks I barely gave the truck a second thought.

Soon underway, perhaps the most noticeable thing is the change from peaceful tranquil, clean mountain scenery and fresh air to the heat, noise, litter and busyness of Silaguri. It was about an hour drive to the Indian / Nepal border which seemed to go by in a flash. Once parked up it was only a short walk to the immigration office to get the exit stamp in the passport. Was actually quite relieved to be leaving India. I have thoroughly enjoyed it, especially from Delhi to Mumbai and then from Pondicherry all the way up the east side of India, but south of Mumbai on the west coast am quite happy to forget and not just because I was ill then.

Crossing the bridge at Kakabitta in no mans land between India and Nepal was uneventful and I was surprised by the efficiency of Nepalese immigration and was expecting to have to wait for hours, similar to Morocco, but it was a quick in, fill out a form, pay $25US for a 15 days visa and there you go.

I couldn’t believe I was now in Nepal, the 5th country on this walkabout, and it didn’t look anything l ike what I was expecting. I had visions of high mountain villages, snow capped mountains, glacial rivers and forests lined with all sorts of prayer flags. I’m sure within the next 15 days I will see these, But for now, it was flat, hot enough to make me wish I was wearing shorts, and had quite fertile farm land.

The sun had just set by the time we arrived at the campsite. The safari tents were a permanent fixture with thatched roofs, electricity, comfy warm twin beds and a fully plumbed bathroom (complete with frogs). Not at all what I was expecting when I heard that we would be camping. This was glamping. In the evening we had a delicious vegetarian Nepal dinner but it was early to bed following a very early start as wasn’t able to have an afternoon nap.

In the morning after breakfast, there was a 3 hour walk with two guides. It was hot and flat, enjoyable but along a raised path and back, with the guides pointing out each and every variety of bird they saw from vultures and eagles, to kingfishers and woodpeckers. I was quite chuffed to spot the python in the grass that everyone else missed until I pointed it out.