So why Morocco ?

Posted on 29th July 201829th July 2018 by Andy

I have to confess, Morocco was never really on my top 10 dream destinations to visit. But if you were to google ‘travel’, inevitably Marrakech’s Jemaa el Fnaa square will feature amongst the results and as I enjoy travel, I actually felt ‘obliged’ to visit. A tick in the box if you like.

Certainly in England, Morocco and Marrakech in particular, is marketed more of a long weekend destination. A few years ago, I did some ‘fantasy travel shopping/research’ and a long weekend to Marrakech was in there. It never came to fruition at the time but the seed was set. However, if I had done a long weekend in Marrakech then, I think would have been put off visiting the rest of Morocco and missed out on so much. In the same way if your only experience of England was visiting Slough, then that would probably put you off England too (no offence meant to those in Slough, well, maybe a little…;) ).

However, do a little more digging and Morocco has a lot more to offer than just a long weekend to one city with a square, a few snake charmers harassing your for money and basically lots of narrow, smelly alleyways heaving with people and many small shops selling the same tourist tat that I have zero interest in buying. Any longer than two days in Marrakech is really a waste of time as all of the local sites can be visited with ease in this time. There are the Atlas and Rif mountains, ski resorts, designer gardens, the Sahara desert, film studios, ancient pre-Roman history, a royal family, modern infrastructure (roads, rail, telecommunications, free education including university, etc.), beaches, quaint villages and towns to modern cities and beautiful religious buildings.

Of course Marrakech has some great things too, please don’t get me wrong. The Riads I stayed at were absolutely fantastic, so much nicer than any western style hotel. The vast majority of people were very friendly and welcoming and Le Jardin Majorelle was a highlight for me and something I wanted to visit before knowing it was even in Marrakech.

During my research last year, I also saw some YouTube videos of a couple who basically sold up, bought a Land Rover Defender and are driving around the world. Some of their videos were filmed in the Moroccan mountains and deserts and in all honesty, it was these videos that were perhaps more influential on me booking a trip to Morocco than anything else. The nomadic lifestyle really appeals. Unfortunately their channel is no longer active or else I would share the link.

I wanted to visit the tanneries in Fes but I was beaten by the smell. I wanted to visit the Atlas Mountains and trek in the Sahara and I was able to do this, and more. I am so glad that I did a circuit of Morocco even though it was quite rushed. I feel I have experienced the country with the highs and lows. There are some negative elements to Morocco, as there are most places. For example, there are quite a few beggars, a lot of litter, the driving seems to have no order or logic and a minor gripe is the food gets very repetitive (various tajine or cous cous).

Anyway, I’m glad I’ve ‘done Morocco’, it was great and I loved it, it delivered much more than I was expecting and have made some great friends, but ultimately I’ve scratched that itch now and I don’t know if I would return.

In a day or so, I will try and post an update about the hotels I stayed at.

Back in Marrakech

Posted on 24th July 201824th July 2018 by Andy

It seems ages since we left Marrakech but it was only a couple of weeks ago. Perhaps instead of the excitement and anticipation of looking forward to the upcoming adventure, it was a little more sad because everyone, now good friends, would be leaving soon, breaking up the group heading home back to their familiar lives and work. Fortunately we had a day lounging by the pool, soaking up the unbearably hot Moroccan sun with a few cold beers, followed by a night out for one last meal together. Good news is there was not a tajine in sight which we were all thankful for, plus it was at a particularly swanky hotel and we all felt a little underdressed. No doubt about it, the food was magnificent. I had a penne pasta with tomatoe and mozzarella and it was really, really delicious. Eating that, I could have been anywhere in the world but it was so good, I really didn’t care about my location.

The next day, after a few good byes, headed into town and the main square (Jemaa el Fnaa) in Marrakech and found a bar with a high vantage point to people watch, drink non alcoholic, ice cold fruit cocktails and sat there waiting for the sun to set and for all the vendors to start trading in earnest. It’s just too hot during the day. The square comes alive just before sunset with people selling juice, fruit, smokey BBQ’s and grills selling all sorts of meat including sheeps head, there are women offering henna tattoos, snake charmers, monkey wranglers etc. It’s an assault on the senses becoming overwhelming in the heat. I do feel quite sorry for the animals made to perform for tourists, wings clipped or kept on a short leash in pretty horrid conditions, but I guess the animals probably don’t know any other ‘life’. Amongst all the hustle and bustle, I found it quite claustrophobic and an invasion of personal space. Every vendor is shouting at you, running to meet you carrying a menu trying to invite you over but as adventurous as I am, I just didn’t fancy paying to play with a cobra or eat a sheeps head. Call me old fashioned…

Having changed from the hotel to a riad (Riad Le Jardin D’Abdou), I was so grateful to get back to the peace and tranquility. As before, the riad was in the medina in an old part of the town, about 15mins walk away from the tourist hot spots. I felt quite isolated in the area, maybe it was paranoia more than anything but I did feel vulnerable. I tried not to let it show by walking and looking confident which helped my frame of mind a lot. This is true in any city even back home. The thing is, everyone I have met here has been very helpful, friendly and welcoming, Moroccan people are so hospitable. Having said that, if you wander the souks and medinas with a guide, the storeholders tend to leave you alone. But venture in by yourself later on, then you become their ’prey’ – and they will pester you to visit their shop, but perhaps not as aggressive as those in Egypt though. I made it successfully back to the Riad which was an absolute joy to find. Staying there, I felt like royalty or if I had won the lottery. I could not have asked for a nicer place to stay (except for the location). It really makes you wonder what is behind all the other scuzzy looking doors you walk past…

Next day, I visited a place I have wanted for visit for some time now and as I had a day to kill before I caught my train to Casablanca, I visited Le Jardin Majorelle. I have seen it a few times on gardening shows and magazines etc., and it always looked good. You know sometimes when you see something on TV and you visit it and it doesn’t live up to expectations? Well, this was the complete opposite. It exceeded all my expectations. Even with some of it closed off for further development, it was amazing. I had a couple of hours to explore and it was so much more than just an ornamental garden. I was extremely grateful for the shade offered by the plants too, I could have easily spent longer. If ever you visit Marrakech, please visit Le Jardin Majorelle. You will not regret it.

Today, I checked out of the riad and caught the train from Marrakech to Casablanca. I got a first class ticket for 148 dirhams (about £12) and shared the cabin with 6 other people from Morocco, France and Algeria and we chatted for the whole journey of about 250km / 3-4 hours. I cannot get a return from Wokingham to London for less than £25 and in a carriage where nobody talks to anyone. We’ve got it so wrong in England.

Chilling in chilly Essaouira

Posted on 21st July 201826th July 2018 by Andy

Am actually starting to feel a little tired already as pretty much since arriving in Morocco, it has been non stop adventure, exploring and exhausting heat. Can’t believe am saying that as am not even one month into this Walkabout and I know there will be a lot more exhaustive travel ahead. It sounds strange as most of the actual travelling in Morocco so far (1,430 miles / 2,300km) has been in a comfortable air conditioned minibus, but where we have stopped or stayed it has been pretty full on.

Heading over to Essaouira, a colourful fishing town with 15th Century Portuguese forts on the windy Atlantic coast, we drove the twisting and turning Atlas Mountain road which look like they were left on the cutting room floor from the opening scenes of The Italian Job.

Opening the doors of the minibus and the temperature difference was noticeable immediately, even with the air-con on full. After sweltering in the Sahara heat, to be suddenly faced with cold winds I was glad I packed a soft shell jacket and long trousers. But the cool air was so refreshing I could have stayed for a few days more as the heat had penetrated my bones and I needed to cool down to a more acceptable ‘English climate’. Saying that, I do not know when I am going to experience a temperature below 30 degrees centigrade again.

The hotel was right on the beach and in a funny sort of way, reminded more of Monaco than Morocco. The medina is UNESCO-listed and it was a pleasure to wonder around as the streets were a little wider, had fewer motorcycles wizzing by and it seemed far less hectic than the medinas and souks of Fes, Chefchaouen or Marrakech. It also didn’t smell anywhere near as bad (despite being a fishing port) and the cool temperature made it comfortable to wonder around. We found a fantastic Italian restaurant and had pizza which was amazing. There are only so many tajine or skewers you can eat… Unfortunately with all the change in temperature, in and out of the minibus, or if it was just tajine withdrawal symptoms, I found myself coming down with a head cold so I dosed myself up with lots with fresh squeezed orange juice and really didn’t venture out of the hotel that much. Pity, as I didn’t come travelling to spend time in a hotel room, no matter how lovely it was. The head cold didn’t stop me from joining my fellow travellers for a refreshing beer on the roof terrace though.

It was a shame to leave Essaouira but we needed to head back to Marrakech, to where it all began. Difficult to believe that in only 15 days have experienced a country so diverse in landscapes, climates and people, from mountains to deserts, to ski resorts and chilly coastal towns, to hot and busy crowded towns and markets with crazy drivers. Everyone I have met here is so friendly and welcoming, certainly appears more so than back home. But there were still more surprises to come. On the drive back to Marrakech, I thought the head cold was playing tricks on my eyes as I was certain I saw a tree full of goats. I had heard rumours that they do climb trees here, but never thought I’d see it. Sure enough, there was a tree full of goats and I got to hold one…